Is it possible for Hydraulic Fluid to get into engine oil?

[EdinCincinnati]

I have a 1954 or 55 International Cub LoBoy and it is garage kept and I crank it a few times a year. It has a belly mower and a touch control but I have been having to add hydraulic fluid lately to get the mower to raise to drive the tractor around but I have noticed that there is not an equal amount of fluid dripped onto the shop floor as to what I fill the touch control with. When I cranked it last week, motor oil looking fluid came bubbling up out of the filler stick but its consistency looked more of hydraulic fluid.

Is it possible for hydraulic fluid to get from its pump through the engine into the oil pan?

Any suggestions on how to determine and what possibly needs to be fixed?

Ed in Cincinnati

[Dale Finch]

Chances are good that the shaft seal on your hydraulic pump is leaking, allowing fluid to go into the engine oil pan.

It will require removal of the pump (left front side of the engine). Their is a procedure in the HOW TO section that explains it.

[Bill Hudson]

You betcha. Hydraulic fluid is leaking into the crankcase from the hydraulic pump. Normally an easy fix. Check the How To Forum for excellent posts on the step-by-step procedure.

Bill

Dale type faster than I do.

[EdinCincinnati]

Thank you both!!! Will start investigating and report back findings.

[Bill Hudson]

Thank you both!!! Will start investigating and report back findings.

You're in the Cincinnati area and near experienced people, should you need help. Keep us informed.

Bill

[Barnyard]

Hey Ed, long time no see. If you don't get it fixed before June, you can bring it to my CubFest the weekend after Memorial Day.

[ShawnAgne]

Yup happened to me once, twice,ok a bunch......

Easiest way to check is like Boss Hog told me, start the tractor and run the touch control back and forth for about a half hour. If its leaking it won't take that long. Also mark your oil level before you start and then after.

[Glen]

Hi,
TM Tractor has a rebuild kit for the pump.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/288fp.htm

2 of the 4 bolts in the pump hold the pump on the engine. Looking forward from the rear, they are the upper left, and the lower right bolts. Don't remove the other 2 bolts before getting the pump to a clean work bench, it can fall apart. You can loosen them while it is on the engine.

The lock washer holding the nut on at the pump gear has to be good, to keep the nut from coming off during use. It bends over 1 flat of the nut. You have to bend the lock washer away from the nut to remove the nut. If the lock washer is still good, you can use it again.

Below is a new lock washer at TM Tractor, you can see what it looks like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/562fp.htm

The pump shaft where the o ring runs has to be flat and in good condition. Sometimes the shaft wears, and there is a groove. If there is a groove, it needs repair. It may need smoothing with fine sandpaper.

Use plenty of clean Hy-Tran fluid when putting the pump together.

Below are pages from the 1955 Cub owner's manual, showing the parts of the system, and how to check or change the fluid. Be sure to do what it says on the 3rd page, in paragraph 4, to remove the air from the system. The arms should go through their full travel.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-65.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-66.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-67.jpg

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the pump gear, nut, and the lock washer.

[EdinCincinnati]

Hey Ed, long time no see. If you don't get it fixed before June, you can bring it to my CubFest the weekend after Memorial Day.

Hey Barnyard!...hopefully I can fix it prior to Memorial cause I usually drive it in our local parade...but I have put your Barnyard Bash on my calendar!

-Ed

[EdinCincinnati]

Hi,
TM Tractor has a rebuild kit for the pump.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/288fp.htm

2 of the 4 bolts in the pump hold the pump on the engine. Looking forward from the rear, they are the upper left, and the lower right bolts. Don't remove the other 2 bolts before getting the pump to a clean work bench, it can fall apart. You can loosen them while it is on the engine.

The lock washer holding the nut on at the pump gear has to be good, to keep the nut from coming off during use. It bends over 1 flat of the nut. You have to bend the lock washer away from the nut to remove the nut. If the lock washer is still good, you can use it again.

Below is a new lock washer at TM Tractor, you can see what it looks like.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/562fp.htm

The pump shaft where the o ring runs has to be flat and in good condition. Sometimes the shaft wears, and there is a groove. If there is a groove, it needs repair. It may need smoothing with fine sandpaper.

Use plenty of clean Hy-Tran fluid when putting the pump together.

Below are pages from the 1955 Cub owner's manual, showing the parts of the system, and how to check or change the fluid. Be sure to do what it says on the 3rd page, in paragraph 4, to remove the air from the system. The arms should go through their full travel.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-65.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-66.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-67.jpg

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the pump gear, nut, and the lock washer.

THANK YOU for Providing this info!!!!!!