1949 Cub Carburetor

[Eugene]

One tire is cracked on the side wall, which means it must be replaced!

Maybe, maybe not. Cracks, and cuts, are not important for ag tires. If the tube is not extruding the tire side wall, use the tire until it pops.

[Flowmaster76]

Great, thank you everybody for the feedback!! I am going to check it out today after I get out of college!! I plan on bringing an air tank and seeing if the rear tire will hold air! Also, I’m going to bring a battery and see if it won’t start up!! I will keep everybody posted

[Don McCombs]

Just remember to prime the oil pump.

[Flowmaster76]

This is a dumb question but I’m new to this stuff...... how do you prime it?? I’m sorry I’m just new to this....

[Don McCombs]

There are no dumb questions. I really should have said to check the oil pressure gauge when you start the tractor. If you don’t have good oil pressure within 10 to 15 seconds, then shut the tractor down and prime the oil pump. There are a number of threads here about priming the pump and several ways to do it. I find that removing the oil filter cover and bolt, and squirting about a cup of oil in the opening behind the filter is the easiest. I’ll try to find and post a photo of that opening.

[Flowmaster76]

Great,, thank you very much!! This is such a nice website!! Everyone are so supportive and caring!!

[Don McCombs]

If it has been running recently, you may be OK on the oil pressure.

[Flowmaster76]

There is very helpful to know. From what I know, it has been sitting for a few years.

[Don McCombs]

Here is the opening at the back of the filter housing. If you need to prime, squirt about a cup of oil in the hole with an old style oil can. If the prime is successful, oil will come back out of the hole as you crank the engine with the ignition switch off.

Oil Pump Priming Opening.jpg (27 KiB) Viewed 305 times

[Flowmaster76]

That is very good to know!! Thank you very much!!

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cub owner's manual will help you learn about maintenance that the Cub needs.

Below is the 1949 Cub owner's manual. The experts on here recommend people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It shows how Cubs originally looked in it. The lube section begins on page 14.
Changing the transmission and final drive oils are on pages 20 and 21.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

The trans can get water in it, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.
People have written on here that it commonly happens.

The recommendation in the manual to use motor oil in the Touch Control was changed later to use Case IH Hy-Tran fluid. It is sold at Case IH dealers. The system holds 3 1/2 Pints, when you drain and change the fluid.
It tells how to check or change the Touch Control fluid, and remove the air from the system on page 62. Be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4 to remove the air from the system.
Fill the system the last time, or check the fluid with the arms in the rear or down position.

Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new grille, you can look at the pics and see how it looks.
TM Tractor is at the bottom of most pages on here.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/tg/864fp.htm

JP Tractor Salvage at the bottom of the page might have a used grille.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the IH style carburetor, that a 1949 Cub came with new. The carb in the pic looks new, and might be another brand, but it is the IH style.
There are pics of the IH carb in the owner's manual.

[Waif]

Great, thank you everybody for the feedback!! I am going to check it out today after I get out of college!! I plan on bringing an air tank and seeing if the rear tire will hold air! Also, I’m going to bring a battery and see if it won’t start up!! I will keep everybody posted

Study the battery ,and it's hook up on the tractors existing system.
Originally , Cubs were 6 volt Positive ground.
Owner modifications varied over the years , (12 volt conversions ,or a switch to Negative ground in the process)so I can't say for sure how your tractor will be set up.

If you are bringing a 12 volt battery , more study is in order. With a dose of caution regarding your 6 Volt system. IF 6 Volt...
Link below has some info..
viewtopic.php?t=101046

[Bill Hudson]

I realize that I'm a day late, however, for the future consider not trying to start a nonrunner prior to buying the tractor. Why? Because if you are successful in starting the tractor, all of a sudden the asking price becomes far less negotiable. Just a thought.

Bill

[Flowmaster76]

Thanks for the feedback. Update for everybody that is wondering, I purchased the tractor yesterday and it went very well. We loaded up the tractor and brought it to my house. I drained all the gas that has been sitting in the tank. And put fresh 87 octane into the tank. Surprisingly, the tank is not rusting at all. It has been converted to a 12 V system, so I grabbed a standard 12 V battery and hooked it up. After a few cranks it started right up, but was smoking a lot. Now I know what he meant by a carburetor issue. It only runs with the choke on and bogs down when I try and put it into second.

[Flowmaster76]

I’m thinking it is not getting enough gas, so I will be thoroughly cleaning out the carburetor today.That will eliminate the issue of things inside the carburetor. One of my original concern is that the previous owner does not have the original fuel set up. The fuel sediment bowl has been completely removed. The only filter is an in-line fuel filter.