Hello,
New member here. I've read the Welcome Wagon and have been perusing the forum for a few weeks now. This is a great place.
I recently acquired a 1955 cub and am redoing the wiring. The wire for the rear light is held against the battery cable by a few metal sheaths. Similarly, the battery cable is connected to the console by a clam-shell metal bracket. How do I open or loosen these to get the battery cable and rear light wire out? Is there some kind of expanding metal pliers that you use?
Thanks!
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Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
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- Posts: 34
- Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:26 am
- Zip Code: 19610
- Tractors Owned: 1955 Farmall Cub
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2820
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
pry them open with two screwdrivers or two pliers
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
Welcome!
Glad to read that you already read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum. Here are some more links:
After your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the free PDF Manuals. They are located via "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals". Through that link, you'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. You'll be able to familiarize yourself with your new-to-you Cub more quickly. Implement Manuals are also available.
Might also enjoy reading through this thread: What to do with a Cub you just brought home
Take some pictures of your tractor and post them. We’d like to see it.
Glad you joined us.
Glad to read that you already read through a few threads to acquaint yourself with the Forum. Here are some more links:
- How to Upload Pictures to a Post
- Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
- Using the Forum
After your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the free PDF Manuals. They are located via "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals". Through that link, you'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. You'll be able to familiarize yourself with your new-to-you Cub more quickly. Implement Manuals are also available.
Might also enjoy reading through this thread: What to do with a Cub you just brought home
Take some pictures of your tractor and post them. We’d like to see it.
Glad you joined us.
- Dale Finch
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6673
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
- Zip Code: 27517
- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
FYI, one of those clamped "sheaths" is supposed to go right where the cable emerges from under the platform, protecting it from being rubbed by the clutch pedal. It's a real pain to get it tucked in there, but it's rather important. After prying it apart, and inserting the wires, I have even used a small hammer to clamp it back tight enough to fit.
Good luck, and WELCOME!!
Good luck, and WELCOME!!
-
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:26 am
- Zip Code: 19610
- Tractors Owned: 1955 Farmall Cub
Re: Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
Thank you for the suggestions. Sometimes the simple ways/tools are the best. The battery cable was in a sorry state, having had its insulation stripped off by the clutch pedal.
Here is the tractor on the day of delivery, a little more than two weeks ago.
Here is the tractor on the day of delivery, a little more than two weeks ago.
Mol ee Daag kumm ich zu die nei Bauerei...
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2820
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
If you replace the cable make sure it is 2 gauge. May people complain about the starting with 6 volt systems. 12v cables on a 6-volt system is usually part of the issue.
I have used 0 gauge but it is hard to get into the and past the clutch pedal. TM tractor sells the correct cable.
Good looking tractor!
I have used 0 gauge but it is hard to get into the and past the clutch pedal. TM tractor sells the correct cable.
Good looking tractor!
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
- Glen
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6137
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
Hi,
The Cub looks good in the pic.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new battery to starter cable for the 6 volt Cubs. It is number 2 cable, it says. You can look at the pics. It is made the length to be routed the original way.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/2581fp.htm
If you would rather have the original ground, the pic at the bottom of the listing shows that.
You have to have a good battery box, and it works better to clean the bottom of it, and the surface it mounts on, so the battery box makes good contact.
Below are pages from the 1955 Cub owner's manual. The 1st page shows the battery cable routing in the middle pic. The numbers on the 1st page are explained on the 2nd page.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-38.jpg
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-39.jpg
Below is the 1955 Cub owner's manual, the experts on here recommend reading it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. It has a table of contents on page 1.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
The Cub looks good in the pic.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for a new battery to starter cable for the 6 volt Cubs. It is number 2 cable, it says. You can look at the pics. It is made the length to be routed the original way.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/2581fp.htm
If you would rather have the original ground, the pic at the bottom of the listing shows that.
You have to have a good battery box, and it works better to clean the bottom of it, and the surface it mounts on, so the battery box makes good contact.
Below are pages from the 1955 Cub owner's manual. The 1st page shows the battery cable routing in the middle pic. The numbers on the 1st page are explained on the 2nd page.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-38.jpg
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-39.jpg
Below is the 1955 Cub owner's manual, the experts on here recommend reading it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. It has a table of contents on page 1.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
-
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 8:26 am
- Zip Code: 19610
- Tractors Owned: 1955 Farmall Cub
Re: Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
Thank you inairam and Glen for your advice! My battery box is in ok shape. It's not the best, but I plan on soaking it in rust remover. I didn't realize that TM Tractor was a sponsor. I will support them going forward!
Some more pics (sorry for being slow).
From a few days ago:
Battery box and mounting location:
I know this isn't right
Some more pics (sorry for being slow).
From a few days ago:
Battery box and mounting location:
I know this isn't right
Mol ee Daag kumm ich zu die nei Bauerei...
- Dale Finch
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6673
- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
- Zip Code: 27517
- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
Your battery box and the platform are in excellent condition. Assuming you are bolting the ground cable TO the battery box (as originally done, rather than to, say, a transmission shifter cover bolt), you will need to remove any paint or rust where the battery cable bolts to the box and the box to the platform, as well as chase the bolt holes to clean them out. These bolt areas, as you probably know, ARE your "ground wire" points.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2820
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: Removing metal sheaths holding rear light wire to battery cable
Another option is the use a braided ground and bolt to the bottom of the batter box and run the cable up the side of the battery inside the box
https://brillman.com/product/b2000-005- ... eavy-duty/ ( 11" or 14" depending one you battery)
In my opinion, this gives a cleaner install and better ground.
Ground is very important to the products we make at work and we have to go beyond ground that would be a perfectly good ground for most other electrical application. So in addition to removing paint and chasing threads, as Dale wisely suggested, I use stainless bolts in the battery box bottom and a conductive electrical grease on the bare metal areas and the bolt threads to reduce corrosion issues over time.
https://brillman.com/product/b2000-005- ... eavy-duty/ ( 11" or 14" depending one you battery)
In my opinion, this gives a cleaner install and better ground.
Ground is very important to the products we make at work and we have to go beyond ground that would be a perfectly good ground for most other electrical application. So in addition to removing paint and chasing threads, as Dale wisely suggested, I use stainless bolts in the battery box bottom and a conductive electrical grease on the bare metal areas and the bolt threads to reduce corrosion issues over time.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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