That old 100 Manure Spreader, ready for more and more

[DickB]

I've pulled out from brush piles the old 100 Manure Spreader, brought it up to barn for some fixing have it fairly well greased up. Walked around it, found greasing points and Unlike other such spreaders this one has wood sides and a bit of the wood has rot that I'll cut out and replace.

Don't know why the sides are wood, but that's how it was when I bought it some years back from a fellow townsman who now, alas, is gone. My sense is that the fellow I bought it from restored it (Bed + sides) and perhaps he didn't want to spend the money for metal sides? Don't know and never will. It looks too perfectly IH 100, in any event and I do like woodworking vs. metalworking. I've looked for IH symbols cast into the metal work but have not found any. Not that I'm interested in taking the fenders off. But, red and blue paint per viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81120&hilit=manure is what I'm probably up to.

One issue that occurred now and then, perhaps you all can figure out for me. While towing and spreading, a wheel would lock up and the spreading would stop. I'd back up some do the usual moving of levers and eventually get it spreading and moving again. What's going on, and what's the fix?

If needed, a photo of a tired old spreader ready for sprucing up can be taken...

Last year I took on the Cub pulled old horse-drawn hay rake and de-rusted it, splashed paint on it. It works fine and I'm hoping to restore the spreader to a similar state.

[Bob McCarty]

Dick, There are lube points under the chain guards. I think that's why so many are missing them, they were removed to lube and never replaced. I have a 100, but use a 200 for horse manure. Can't answer why the wheel locks up. You may have a broken tooth, broken spring, bad hub, broken pawl or pawl spring, etc. that you'll need to track down. If you haven't looked for them, there are manuals for the 100 in the PDF manuals.

[Mac AR]

Those wheels have "dogs" in them that are sprung. One of your springs may be broken, letting the dog lock the wheel. I've had that happen before. Also, check your lever linkages for slop. I ran into that on my old Case spreader, it would just lock up and skid. This was caused by the floor chain drive linkage, which had so much slop in it that it would kick itself halfway out of gear, locking the wheels. I will also add that you should make sure that your wheel bearings are packed well and the bearings aren't bad. Even if the bearings are good, if it hasn't been used in a long time, re-pack the bearings anyway. It wouldn't hurt to oil your chains, either. I use 30w motor oil, usually after I've drained it from one of the tractors.
Good Luck!

Mac

[DickB]

Thanks, Bob and Mac. So I should take off chain guards (those "fenders") and look things over. Where to adjust the (indeed it is) sloppy floor chains--they hand down underneath the wood bed of the spreader. So, I'll look things over and fiddle some. The previous owner suggested the motor oil treatment.

Looks like a step-by-step approach. I'll probably be back, questions in hand.

[DickB]

Wood boards for sides. Top board has rot near front. Board is 3/4" and with others are T&G. I'm replacing the messed up one with pressure treated wood, planed to size.

[DickB]

Looking at the colors for the manure spreader, and a question.

Here's the specified colors and locations:

body & frame: red
apron: blue
wheels: cream
hubs: blue

Just what is the apron? Looking through the instructions from Rudi, it kind of seems as if all of the manure flinging stuff in the rear is the apron, but maybe not. Anyone know exactly how to figure this out? Any photos of the correct paint job?

[Jim Becker]

IH called the 2 flinging things with teeth cylinders, the other a spiral. I have also heard them called beaters and wide-spreads. The apron is the double chain with slats that moves the load to the back.

[Bob McCarty]

You can adjust the drop of the apron chain by moving each of the front cogs forward evenly. You don't want the apron real tight though. The 200 has a bracket underneath on either side that helps hold up the apron. Even with that , it still droops quite a bit.

[DickB]

So it is almost entirely red. A bit of cream on the wheels and even less blue on the hubs. Kind of minor that cream and blue, huh?

There's a droop, Bob, to the apron chain and there always has been that droop. I've looked (only) at the adjusting bolts for it and have decided to leave it alone for now. Currently I've got the gear/chain covers off and primed. There are lots of grease zerkes hiding underneath these covers and a few aren't letting the grease in, so I've got to fiddle with them.

[Stanton]

So it is almost entirely red. A bit of cream on the wheels and even less blue on the hubs. Kind of minor that cream and blue, huh?

There's a droop, Bob, to the apron chain and there always has been that droop. I've looked (only) at the adjusting bolts for it and have decided to leave it alone for now. Currently I've got the gear/chain covers off and primed. There are lots of grease zerkes hiding underneath these covers and a few aren't letting the grease in, so I've got to fiddle with them.

Yes, lots of grease points.

Here's one I did some years back. Sold it to Barnyard a couple years ago:
http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81120&hilit=spreader

[DickB]

Hi Stanton. I saw your piece from some time back and was interested in your paint job back then. Now, with the "committee" color scheme, I'll use the blue just for the apron and the hubs. White for the wheels, red everywhere else. My apron looks like it was never painted and, if it is a 1948 spreader then that's a lot of years out there. But I'll paint it blue -- not sure if that color matters there, but extra cans of blue are here.

Has anyone found tires for the 100 spreader that have treads like those shown on the Instruction Manual? Treads like the Cub's rear tires. Reasonably priced, of course.

[Jim Becker]

They are known as "traction implement" or "power implement" tires. I don't know the size, it may have changed over the years that model spreader was made. If they are 16", you are probably dealing with reproduction antique tires. M. E. Miller has them, as may others. Reasonable price is in the eye of the beholder.

[DickB]

Looks nice, the ME Miller tire ... if I picked the right one. In any event I'd rely on my local tire guy to find one when/if the time arrives. $130 each plus shipping plus mounting. Not so fast there.

But! Moving in the more essential direction, this morning I might have found the reason that the spreader now and then (this was probably 6 or more years ago) would not engage the wheel for powering it. There is a bicycle-like chain with lots of links that runs the powering operation, and one of the links is now frozen pretty darned solid now. It would seem that it would not go around a sprocket. This is not the usual spreader "S" link chain.

I've sprayed this frozen link a few times during a short time frame and it hasn't budged yet. A hammer against a steel block with the link in between moved it slightly. Got to figure out how to loosen this up and hopefully the spreader will be fully operational. PB Blaster everyday? I'm all for working this out with the chain staying where it is. Some propane heat? All of the above, I suspect. So. On to something. In between, repainting. Greasing all done.

[Bob McCarty]

The ones that I have are 5.50 x 16, but a few searches haven't found any that size. Mine are Titans.

[Jim Becker]

. . . A hammer against a steel block with the link in between moved it slightly. . .

If the hammer moved it a little, it should also be able to move it a little back the other way. Douse it again with penetrant then tap it back and forth with the hammer. It should loosen up in a few cycles.