1948 Cub Parts Help

[BenJack9903]

I bought a '48 cub that has been converted to a 12 volt system. It's missing items and has scabbed together parts and I'd like to put it back to as close to original as possible. I need a new choke push/pull rod and the switch is a light switch taped to the front. How do I find out what is needed to clean this up?

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[Bob McCarty]

If you click on "TM Tractor" at the bottom of the page , they have a photo gallery. They also sell new parts. For the choke rod, you could place a '''wanted" in the Vine subforum and see if someone has an extra to sell.

[Waif]

Study the switch wiring.
Different ignition types have different wiring.
Early magneto on/off switch had a single terminal. Distributor type on/off switch had two terminals , and ignitions were/could be modified ,coil types changed and require a two terminal switch.

Two types of commercial replacement are common. One similar to stock configuration. (Actually two of those ,single or double terminal.)
And one with a plastic knob that runs about half the cost of the more stock type , again in two choices of configuration.

Your tractor may have been handcrank started early in life negating the need for a choke rod.
Turning the rectangle shaped piece on the outside of the carburetor was within reach from the tractors front.

As Bob mentions , a wanted post in the Vine here could help locate one.viewforum.php?f=223

[tst]

the original light switch is still on your tractor

[BenJack9903]

It's confusing. I know the light switch is on the tractor, but there's a light switch taped to the tractor being used for the ignition switch. I want to do away with that "light switch" and replace it with the appropriate ignition switch.

[Urbish]

TM Tractor lists a new choke rod for $19.77

[Stanton]

It's confusing. I know the light switch is on the tractor, but there's a light switch taped to the tractor being used for the ignition switch. I want to do away with that "light switch" and replace it with the appropriate ignition switch.

By virtue that your '48 has been converted to a 12V system, it's not original (6V system). Therefore, you'll need to be looking for a 12V switch that fits and works properly (not necessarily authentically).

Here's the link to the TM Tractor webpage on switches:
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/el_001Anewparts.htm

Hope this helps.

[BenJack9903]

I think I asked the wrong questions. I go to the sites you guys suggest and I see all the parts. My issue is I'm about as uneducated on this as you can imagine. Where can I get the information concerning which parts I need so I can order the correct parts the first time? Purchase a manual? I'm not sure the manual will tell me about a converted 12 volt system. I'm not trying to be aggravating but I have no knowledge to pull from.

[Waif]

I think I asked the wrong questions. I go to the sites you guys suggest and I see all the parts. My issue is I'm about as uneducated on this as you can imagine. Where can I get the information concerning which parts I need so I can order the correct parts the first time? Purchase a manual? I'm not sure the manual will tell me about a converted 12 volt system. I'm not trying to be aggravating but I have no knowledge to pull from.

As simple as a Cub wiring can be...You/a user repairer needs to know what circuit(s) are being used why.

By tracing your wires and identifying what they are connected to , we know if your on/off switch is a kill switch for a stock magneto coil , or if it is being used for something else.

When an ignition system that requires power to the coil from the battery is used , it's different than an early stock magneto system.

Here's some browsing. Maybe something is familiar ,but knowing what you have for components and how they are currently wired will go far in telling what you need.search.php?keywords=Cub+12+volt+conversion

Bonus if your Cub runs already!

[Dale Finch]

If you haven't looked at this post, it might help get you started:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=91765
Also, whenever I am working on an area of my cubs, e.g. final seal replacements/rebuild, I make sure I have the exploded parts diagrams from the PARTS MANUAL handy, so I can write down what hardware (or part) I need. Then you can go to TM Tractors, NAPA, Steiners, eBay, etc, or post on the VINE, for those parts. Gaskets can be purchased or made, seals and bearings are (mostly) available from your local NAPA store, as are oil filters.

Find the pages for whatever you are working on, make sure they are for your year tractor (it will say by serial number). Parts, Owners, and Service Manuals are available via the PDF link in the upper left corner.

[Dale Finch]

Oh, and keep asking questions...eventually you will get the answer that gets you rolling.

Check out the HOW TO section under BOARD INDEX. It covers most of the common tasks that most owners face...and it makes for interesting reading.

Probably the best advice I could give you is to attend (preferably WITH your tractor) a Cubfest. A great chance to meet some knowledgeable folks who will help you tackle some of those problems you are facing! They are fun, and you would be surprised how much you learn...which will increase your confidence to handle future issues!

I am in Chapel Hill, and will be heading to the Barnyard Bash at the end of the month. You are welcome to come with me and you will be at one of the largest cubfests of the season! There is a POSSIBILITY that we could take your tractor, too!

[T-Mo]

JP Tractor Salvage, one of our sponsors listed on the top, will have used parts and I know they have the choke rod.

[MiCarl]

Originally your tractor had a magneto ignition. The on/off switch killed the ignition (and shut off the engine) by shorting the coil to ground when in the off position. The magneto may or may not have been replaced as part of a 12V conversion.
THIS LINK is pictures of a magneto at TM Tractor

Note the ignition coil is integrated onto the top of the magneto.

Newer versions of the tractor (and some 12V conversions) will have a battery ignition. On those the ignition switch provides power to the ignition coil. Turning off the switch disconnects the power and the ignition quits working.
THIS LINK is pictures of a distributor for a battery ignition at TM Tractor.

Note that there is no ignition coil pictured. It will be an entirely separate part with it's own mounting bracket.

The switches are different. Identify which ignition you have and we can point you to a switch.

Whichever type you have I suggest a key type switch unless you're determined to make it original. There are many times my tractor ends up somewhere I'd prefer not just any yahoo could start it up.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is the 1949 Cub owner's manual. The experts on here recommend that people read it. It has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1. It has pics of how the Cubs originally looked.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html

A 1949 Cub originally came with magneto ignition.
Below are pics from TM Tractor of the original style ignition switch that a Cub with a magneto came with. You push the switch in to stop the engine, and pull it out to run the engine.
It was mounted in the bottom hole on the dash. The owner's manual shows it.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gel ... ng_001.htm

The magneto switch has 1 wire, the switch grounds the magneto to stop the engine. The magneto is not connected to battery power. Don't connect it to battery power, if it has the original style coil, inside the magneto.

Battery Ignition units came out in 1950 on Cubs, yours could have been changed to it.
They use an ignition switch that looked the same as the switch above, but have 2 posts on the rear, instead of 1 post. The Battery Ignition switch has battery power go through it. They use a coil like cars had in the past. There is no Battery Ignition unit info in the 1949 Cub owner's manual. The info is in newer owner's manuals.

The 2 systems have ignition points, they have to be good, so the engine will run good. The points burn from use, and eventually need replacing.
Below is a listing at TM Tractor for new points and condenser. There are pics there of the 2 ignition systems, you can identify which it has.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

Below is their listing for a new choke rod.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/fl/934fp.htm

There has to be a choke lever on the carburetor for the choke rod to attach to.
Below is a pic from TM Tractor of the engine side of the IH carb, showing the lever. It usually has to be in this position when the choke is fully open. It's position is adjustable on the choke shaft.
Be sure the screw in it is tight, and the lever does not slip on the shaft.