Clutch Replacement

[DonMountain]

I have a 1959 model year International Cub Lo-Boy with a bad clutch. I had the pressure plate and throw-out bearing replaced about 25 years ago when I had the engine rebuilt. After gaining a new wife about 24 years ago and her 13 year old daughter (which I determined was old enough to mow the grass with this Cub) the clutch has been failing. I adjusted the fingers several times and recently it still does not let pressure off the driveline to allow the transmission to be put into gear. So, I am getting ready to tear it down. Maybe there is some looseness in all the clutch linkage too? So, I would appreciate some advice on where to get instructions on tearing it down and separating the tractor, and what parts I should replace and where I might get some high quality parts for it?

[Eugene]

Contact Ron Baker, MidMo on this site. He has a Cubfest coming up on 18 May 19 in California, Mo. Perhaps he can schedule a tractor split and repair the clutch. Couple of experienced Cubbers, the task takes about 1 1/2 hours.

Parts, I would get a new clutch disk and throw out bearing. Parts are available from this site sponsors, CaseIH, and New Holland.

Edit. There are instructions on this site, some with photos and videos.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a post by Dale Finch telling about splitting a Cub.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=96461

Remove the Touch Control filler plug, on the left side, before removing the drain plug, on the right side.
There can be some pressure in the system, even with the engine off.
When it is together again, is a good time to put in new fluid, Case IH Hy-Tran fluid is preferred.
The Cub owner's manual tells how to fill, and remove the air from the system. Fill it the last time, after it is working again, with the arms in the rear, or down position.

Below is a post I wrote on, with info about replacing the clutch. The info begins part way down the page.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=102720&start=30

[DonMountain]

Thanks so much for the help on this Cub clutch problem. I would like to go to the CubFest with it coming up in the middle of May, but the problem is I won't know what parts to purchase before that time. I suspect that maybe the throw-out bearing support apparatus may not be very good also. And I would't know what parts to get before going to the CubFest. Another problem is the Cub is my wife's main grass mowing machine around our very hilly terrain here on the farm. She found out after purchasing one of those zero-turn mowers that they don't work so well on slopes like "her" Cub Lo-Boy does. So she wants it fixed "now"! And our Farmall Super C is a tricycle gear tractor which I tow a 6' finishing mower with on flat terrain and it isn't very good on slopes either like the Cub is.

[Eugene]

The only way to determine needed parts is to split the Cub and inspect. Then order needed parts.

[DonMountain]

The only other solution would to purchase all the parts possible to replace and then go to the CubFest. But I don't know what "all" of the parts are?

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is the Cub service manual, it has lots of info, you could read it also. The clutch is in section 5.
There is a section about splitting the Cub also, section 4.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html


Below is the Clutch page from TM Tractor. It shows all of the parts you would probably need, you may not need as many as are shown.
You don't need the 4 parts in the top row, going across, if you have them already.
The 8 parts in the lower 2 rows are probably at the most what it would need. It may not need all of them. If you buy them, maybe you could ask first if you can return what you don't use.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/cl_001newparts.htm

The flywheel may need sanding with fine sandpaper, where the clutch disc runs on it.

Read the post about the pilot bushing in the info I posted above. It may not need the bushing replaced, if it is good.
A new bushing needs the ID checked after putting it in, the ID can shrink driving it into the crankshaft hole, making it too tight on the clutch shaft, then the shaft will not stop turning when you push the clutch padal down, so the gears grind when shifting.
The bushing needs reaming if it is too small an ID, before putting the clutch on the flywheel.
The clearance specs are in the service manual.

The people on here recommend soaking a new throwout bearing in light motor oil for a day, before putting it in, and grease the grease fitting with cheap grease also, so the oil in the grease absorbs into the graphite.

[DonMountain]

Thank you very much for this info Glen. Now I see all the clutch parts will run about $200, with the linkage parts about $35 of that total. I can "risk" that amount just to have all the parts on hand before I even attempt to split the Cub or if I take it to the CubFest. The only question then would be if I replaced the clutch pilot bushing if anyone at the CubFest would have the reamer to adjust the size for my transmission shaft size.

[Glen]

Hi,
Below is a pic of the throwout bearing and parts inside the clutch housing when you split a Cub.
That one has a support that someone made, bolted onto the implement attaching holes.

Below is a page from the 1957 Cub LoBoy owner's manual, showing the clutch.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2057.jpg

If the rear engine seal leaks any, while you have the Cub split is a good time to replace it.
You have to remove the flywheel to replace the seal.
You might have read on here before, that modern oil seals don't fit tight in some of the seal retainers.
tst on here remakes used seal retainers so a new oil seal will fit tight in them. He can sell you one, if you want. Write him a PM, if you need one. Below is a pic of the rear seal retainer.

[DonMountain]

What are the chances that I would have to replace the clutch pilot bushing? I know the only real way to answer that is to take the Cub apart and measure the shaft and the interior of the bushing to find out and then calculate the clearance. But do they "normally" get replaced at a clutch replacement? Or is it not a common need? And if I need to replace it how is it removed and then replaced? It looks like it would require some sort of special puller, and then a custom driver of some sort. Then a custom reamer to size it after its driven in.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

If the disk itself is failing the point where the clutch pedal feels pressure will get higher. When the lining gets thinner the fingers raise making the engagement point for the pedal higher. Your description definitely sounds like the throw out bearing is going.

[Glen]

Hi,
Boss Hog has said on here that clutch pilot bushings do not always need replacing, when you replace a clutch, some are still good.
You will just have to look at yours with a light, and see if it looks good, and measure it too would be best.
To remove one, some people use a shaft, or a bolt, the size of the ID of the bushing, about 6" to 8" long, that slides into the bushing easily, fill the bushing mostly with grease, then hammer on the end of the shaft, the bushing will usually come out of the hole, as the shaft goes in. You may have to add more grease, as the bushing comes out.
Then you have to clean all the grease out of the hole, before putting the new bushing in.
This method is in the How To Forum also.

Dale Finch has shown pics of using a socket, turned backwards on an extension, to install new oil seals.
This would probably work for installing a bushing too. Use a socket that fits well on the end of the bushing. Below is a pic of installing a seal. Hammer on the end of the extension.

If needed, a reamer the right size would be the best, engine shops probably have them for their use.
You can probably buy one somewhere.
Some of the people on here have said that they wrapped a dowel with sandpaper, and made the ID of the bushing bigger.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual, showing the clutch shaft size, and the running clearance in the bushing.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg

[lowgearfarm]

Yesterday I split the '49 Cub at the bell housing/engine block as a first step to replace the leaking rear crank seal and to check out the misbehaving clutch. Found the graphite throwout bearing was worn down to its housing. The housing had even started wearing out the fingers on the pressure plate. I had replaced the TO bearing maybe thirty years ago but never greased it. Oops. There is a new graphite TO bearing and clutch assembly in transit and should be here in a few days. My question: Is the bearing supposed to spin within its housing? The old one bearing sure doesn't spin any more. The grease fitting on the bottom of the housing provides lube between the graphite and the housing, yes? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.

[Eugene]

My question: Is the bearing supposed to spin within its housing?

The graphite does not spin in the housing. Supposed to be solid.

You need to soak the bearing in oil for a while, then lub with the cheapest grease available. Yes the zerk is for greasing the bearing.

[lowgearfarm]

OK. I now understand that the graphite doesn't spin in its housing. But now I'm uncertain about where the grease goes. Does it just penetrate the graphite and lube between the graphite and the pressure plate?
And why do you say the "cheapest grease available"? My cheapest grease would be that which is already on my shelf.
Thanks,
~Ned