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Pulley Install
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- ScottyG
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 7:49 pm
- Location: Watkins Glen, NY
Pulley Install
Try as I might I cannot get the fan pulley to set all the way down to its stop. I've hammered on it, I've threaded a 1/2" bolt and tried to press nut it into place and I'm still about 1/4" to home base. I'm about to give up on it thinking that it's close enough. Can I give it a little heat and try pressing it in a little more? What should I do here? It's awfully tight.
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub
-
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:23 pm
- Zip Code: 49345
- Tractors Owned: 1937 John Deere "B"
1941 John Deere "LA"
1947 John Deere "D"
1952 John Deere "B"
1949 John Deere "A"
(2) 1970 John Deere "70" L/G
1971 Case 442 L/G
1953 Farmall Cub
1962 Farmall Cub Lo Boy
w/Wagner loader
assortment of plows. disk,harvestors. - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Michigan, Sparta
It's possible that your 1/2" bolt that your using has bottemed out. Remove the bolt and put 6 flat washers on it and try to run it on further. I used an impact when I did it the umteen times I had to remove and install for my oil pressure problem.
Mark
Mark
My wife say's I never listen to her, or something like that.
Amateur Extra class radio call sign AB8MS
Amateur Extra class radio call sign AB8MS
- ScottyG
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 7:49 pm
- Location: Watkins Glen, NY
Problem is with the heat is there ain't no way I want to pull the pulley off again so I'm going to work with what I've got. I'll try to nut it down again on some steel plate and washers.
Also, how do all of you keep the pulley from turning while your pressing? I used vice grips to hold the threaded hex bolt in place while turning the nut in the opposite direction.
Also, how do all of you keep the pulley from turning while your pressing? I used vice grips to hold the threaded hex bolt in place while turning the nut in the opposite direction.
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 755
- Joined: Sun Jan 02, 2005 4:28 pm
- Zip Code: 63031
- Location: St. Louis Mo.
Turning
Engage the PTO and with "C" clamps on the PTO pully against the Rockshaft arm, will keep the engine from turning (if the clutch is good). Heat was necessary with ours. Be shure your clearance hole on the backer plate is BIG. Our first try bent the plate and it wedged tight against the pulling bolt.
- Bigdog
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
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- Location: OH, Circleville
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Scotty - I think I'd bite the bullet and pull the pulley again and then heat before trying to re-install. If you don't, you will end up damaging something way more expensive.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
- Chris Todd
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 713
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:15 pm
- Zip Code: 43701
- Tractors Owned: 1955 Farmall Cub
1947 Farmall Circle Cub
1973 Int. 474 - Location: OH, Zanesville
I second what Big Dog stated. I need to remove mine because I didn't get mine pulled completly like you. Must have had a burr, etc. and pulley cooled during process and I stripped my allthread. Am waiting on a torch set now as I don't EVEN want to have to call Tom at TM again I suggest encircling your new seal area with something if you try to reheat with a torch. Think it might help protect during(my thinking anyway). Good Luck!
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
- Cub Pro
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- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
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With the pulley already on it isn't of much help, but the IH service manual reccomends placing the pulley in boailing water for a few minutes before installing.
are you sure you need to go further? The end of the shaft isn't solid against the pulley to begin with. As long as it's on far enough for the sela to be on the lip, and for the fan belt to line up, you are far enough.
are you sure you need to go further? The end of the shaft isn't solid against the pulley to begin with. As long as it's on far enough for the sela to be on the lip, and for the fan belt to line up, you are far enough.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
- ScottyG
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 7:49 pm
- Location: Watkins Glen, NY
So guys, if I'm hearing you correctly, the pulley should never take this much force to install? I emery clothed the inside of the pulley hub before I tried and coated both it and the crank shaft with graphite lube. Terribly tight. I'll pull it again and heat in the oven like everyone suggests
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 755
- Joined: Sun Jan 02, 2005 4:28 pm
- Zip Code: 63031
- Location: St. Louis Mo.
Pressure
It doesn't go on easy, even with heat. Wonder how many tons of pressure were used during manufacture.
- ScottyG
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 7:49 pm
- Location: Watkins Glen, NY
Hmmm. John, you have a point. I guess I'm thinking that the pulley needs to come into contact with its stop (against the crank gear). The belt will line up but I'd be happy with another 1/4" to make it truly linear.
Perhaps I can torch heat the pulley and try pressing a little bit more? I did throw the hydraulic gear puller in the car just in case however.
While we're on the subjec too, if I tighten up my front crank case cover, the cover gets pulled off the bottom of the crank shaft just enough where it looks like there's a 1/16" gap between the seal and the crank. The top of the crank seals fine. It almost seems like I'd need to shim between the bottom of the cover and the oil pan to center the seal around the shaft. Suggestions??
Perhaps I can torch heat the pulley and try pressing a little bit more? I did throw the hydraulic gear puller in the car just in case however.
While we're on the subjec too, if I tighten up my front crank case cover, the cover gets pulled off the bottom of the crank shaft just enough where it looks like there's a 1/16" gap between the seal and the crank. The top of the crank seals fine. It almost seems like I'd need to shim between the bottom of the cover and the oil pan to center the seal around the shaft. Suggestions??
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:23 pm
- Zip Code: 49345
- Tractors Owned: 1937 John Deere "B"
1941 John Deere "LA"
1947 John Deere "D"
1952 John Deere "B"
1949 John Deere "A"
(2) 1970 John Deere "70" L/G
1971 Case 442 L/G
1953 Farmall Cub
1962 Farmall Cub Lo Boy
w/Wagner loader
assortment of plows. disk,harvestors. - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Michigan, Sparta
I see 2 things that could be or may be wrong. 1st, if you heat the pulley, how hot will you get it? Too hot for the seal?
2nd, the front cover should not be tightened until you install the pulley. This centers the seal on the pulley for total seal contact. The front odge of the pan will flex enough to make the gasket seal.
Mark
2nd, the front cover should not be tightened until you install the pulley. This centers the seal on the pulley for total seal contact. The front odge of the pan will flex enough to make the gasket seal.
Mark
My wife say's I never listen to her, or something like that.
Amateur Extra class radio call sign AB8MS
Amateur Extra class radio call sign AB8MS
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 755
- Joined: Sun Jan 02, 2005 4:28 pm
- Zip Code: 63031
- Location: St. Louis Mo.
???
Please explain your last question more. Sounds like your missing the wear sleave.
-
- 10+ Years
Scotty, By this time you probably have got your pulley on and have moved on. Since earl was making and selling a puller we decided a good set of instructions was nessecary. So we practiced on my Cub pulling and installing several times. 300 degress for 20-30 mins in the oven is a prerec. for the job. If the pulley came off rather easy then use the lower time. If it came hard than you know, adjust accordenly. We also put a light coating off lubricant on the crank. Don't waist anytime from oven to crank. A gear wrench works best and try to be smooth and continuos. It will be obvious when the pully bottoms on the gear. I kept the crank from rotating with a pry bar. I sent Rudi a color instruction sheet. Maybe he can get it on the server.
- ScottyG
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 422
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 7:49 pm
- Location: Watkins Glen, NY
Thanks WK. No I haven't exactly decided on what to do yet. The pulley is actually just about in line with the fan so I might just try to crank once again to gain the 1/4" I need and leave it. I was on magneto duty last night so tonight I'll switch gears and concentrate on the pulley.
"Henry" 1948 Farmall Cub
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