'53 Restoration JBailey

[jbailey]

Just wanted to get this started and practice posting a picture. About have it broken down to the driveline. Next, going to take it outside, soap and power wash before starting to take apart further.

driveline

[jbailey]

Well it looked right in my file, but loaded sideways??

[Bob McCarty]

If you click on it to enlarge it, the pictures rotates 90*.

[Gary Dotson]

It stayed sideways for me, Bob.

[IHCFan1950]

Looking good. At least you have a mostly rust free Cub to start with. That will make the restoration a lot easier and shouldn't take as long since you don't have to do as much rust removal some do.

[Bob McCarty]

It stayed sideways for me, Bob.

Don said the same thing. I'm using Win 10, not sure if that makes any difference.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

It stayed sideways for me, Bob.

That is what happens when you do not have everything supported properly.

[Jim Becker]

It stayed sideways for me, Bob.

Don said the same thing. I'm using Win 10, not sure if that makes any difference.

It stayed sideways for me too. I'm using Win 10. Maybe a different browser? I'm using Edge.

[jbailey]

6 volt Delco 1109611 3022 (or 110961L 8022) Starter had masking tape under the metal band evidently to keep out water, but which held water over time and so starter had a small level of rust accumulated in the bottom. One of the two long screws broke off in starter when taking it apart. Brushes look fair, probably 5/16 inch of brush left up to mounting hole. Of four springs, one spring is rusted broke and one is stiff. Field coils test no grounds. Two insulated brush holders test no grounds. Armature looks fair to good condition.
Confusing is the bearings, I read the parts book to say both bearings are same number which to me means the same size. However measuring the brush end bearing the shaft is .50 while the bendix end of the shaft is .552. Both shafts when put in their bearings appear to have about the same clearances. Both bearings have the same look that is smooth but with the small square intentions which i think are to aid lubrication.
Thoughts are to look for another long screw but could repair, replace all brushes and springs. But the bearings?? I either leave them alone because they are not too worn out, or replace with what? One is probably standard but what is the other? The parts book does not give me measurements.

[Scrivet]

It stayed sideways for me, Bob.

Don said the same thing. I'm using Win 10, not sure if that makes any difference.

It stayed sideways for me too. I'm using Win 10. Maybe a different browser? I'm using Edge.

Edge is a good shaving cream, lousy browser. Don't know how many times at work I've fixed peoples problems by taking away their "e with a bad comb over icon"
Windows 10, Chrome, picture rotates when I enlarge it.

[Glen]

Hi,
The original age starter would be a model number 1109611.
It would be better to replace the bushings, unless they are really good when you put the armature in them and check for looseness.
The guys on here usually say that if you take the starter model number to a starter repair shop, they can get you new bushings, or other parts also.
NAPA might have some parts for them, if you show them the model number.

Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the starter. It says both bushings are the same part number. If yours has 2 different size bushings, someone might have changed sizes of 1 of them in the past. Something could have been worn or damaged.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 008-10.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Earlier parts catalogs give a different number of the drive end bushing. Maybe the later catalogs have an error? Drive end is GM number 810620 or Delco D1676, ID 0.564. Commutator end is GM number 1839345 or Delco D1680, ID 0.502. Steiner has a set of brushes and bushings that agrees with the different bushings.

[jbailey]

Thanks Glen and Jim. Appreciate the bushing numbers Jim. Looking at new brushes on line they did not say made of copper, but are they, I believe I need copper, right?
Also forgot to mention the gear return spring. The spring appears in good condition, but it does not return the gear backwards fully if turned forward by hand. Is this spring worn out or is this normal as maybe the gear is some what thrown back by motion of flywheel and maybe the design is not for a strong return.
And third, should I remove the shoe poles to clean and confirm good contact. A continuity test of them is ok, but is this type test adequate to confirm real time operating ground of the shoe's.

[Jim Becker]

I never got that particular kit from Steiner, but assume they are the right material.

You could have a weak spring, hard to tell unseen and by a description. The starter gear is thrown back by the flywheel overspeeding it. All the spring has to do is keep it from bouncing back out. Generally, the extend/retract operation depends on the spiral and the part that engages it being clean and operating smoothly.

If the fields check OK electrically, leave them undisturbed. The shoe poles (iron cores inside the windings) need a good contact with the housing and are generally best left alone. If there is much rust on the inner faces (next to the armature) clean that off by reaching into the case.

[jbailey]

Trying to remove rocker arm, can't get arm/piston to move so I can get the pin past housing so pin will have room to slide out sideways. I can see Piston in cylinder and it is just short of the opening. Is that as far out as piston will come out of cylinder housing?