Yes, I know this topic comes up all the time. I'm just hoping for one little hint as to how to make this job possible.
I know about the pedal adjustment, but I'm pretty certain the clutch fingers need to be adjusted, since the pedal adjustment seems to be used up. I've read the instructions, the 1.25" height, etc. The only problem is that I can't see a way to adjust and measure, all through the inspection opening. And I've got small hands; I can't imagine how some of you guys would struggle.
So...any hot hints I haven't found in my searches?
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Clutch adjustment
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'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Clutch adjustment
1. Remove the clutch housing cover
2. If you have a belly mower under your tractor, get some padding, cuz you'll be laying on it unless you can remove it.
3. Loosen the peddle adjustment bolt so you can move the throwout bearing (TOB) as far to the rear as possible, giving you maximum room for the adjustment.
4. You can make a gauge for the finger adjustment of 1.25"out of some heavy wire (coathanger)...mine was made by a forum member from an old windshield wiper blade. Check each finger for the proper height and if needed, continue with the adjustments. (There is a HOW TO that shows where to make the measurements)
5. Have a friend there to rotate the engine for the 3 finger adjustments...it's a real pain to have to get up and down under that thing!
6. Using a small ratcheting right angle screwdriver and a 1/2" (I believe) open end wrench, loosen the nut for the first finger, turn the adj. screw whichever direction moves the finger correctly - higher or lower. When done, mark that finger so you know it's done, and continue to the next. Check each twice!
7. Pry the pedal adjustment so the TOB is the correct distance from the fingers per manual (can't remember the exact amount, maybe 1/8"?) then tighten the bolt. Hopefully this will also give you the desired 1" pedal freeplay.
8. Grab the clutch pedal (while underneath) and pull it to the stop. See if the TOB touches the fingers evenly...helps if your friend/assistant turns the engine by hand so you can watch them (fingers) and the TOB.
9.Finally start the engine and see how it goes!
There are some really good HOW TO posts on this, so check them out...this is simply from memory, and I've most likely made some erors...folks will come along and correct me, I'm sure.
Good luck!
2. If you have a belly mower under your tractor, get some padding, cuz you'll be laying on it unless you can remove it.
3. Loosen the peddle adjustment bolt so you can move the throwout bearing (TOB) as far to the rear as possible, giving you maximum room for the adjustment.
4. You can make a gauge for the finger adjustment of 1.25"out of some heavy wire (coathanger)...mine was made by a forum member from an old windshield wiper blade. Check each finger for the proper height and if needed, continue with the adjustments. (There is a HOW TO that shows where to make the measurements)
5. Have a friend there to rotate the engine for the 3 finger adjustments...it's a real pain to have to get up and down under that thing!
6. Using a small ratcheting right angle screwdriver and a 1/2" (I believe) open end wrench, loosen the nut for the first finger, turn the adj. screw whichever direction moves the finger correctly - higher or lower. When done, mark that finger so you know it's done, and continue to the next. Check each twice!
7. Pry the pedal adjustment so the TOB is the correct distance from the fingers per manual (can't remember the exact amount, maybe 1/8"?) then tighten the bolt. Hopefully this will also give you the desired 1" pedal freeplay.
8. Grab the clutch pedal (while underneath) and pull it to the stop. See if the TOB touches the fingers evenly...helps if your friend/assistant turns the engine by hand so you can watch them (fingers) and the TOB.
9.Finally start the engine and see how it goes!
There are some really good HOW TO posts on this, so check them out...this is simply from memory, and I've most likely made some erors...folks will come along and correct me, I'm sure.
Good luck!
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
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- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Clutch adjustment
Here is Jeff Silvey's HOW TO:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=66543
And this one has a good picture of just where you are making the measurements:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=6994
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=66543
And this one has a good picture of just where you are making the measurements:
http://farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=6994
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- 5+ Years
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Re: Clutch adjustment
Thanks. Those are pretty much the steps I ascertained from my reading. I really don't want to split this thing to put a new clutch in it.
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Re: Clutch adjustment
Other than an occasional pressure plate finger adjustment, not much goes wrong with the pressure plate.Mrblanche wrote:I really don't want to split this thing to put a new clutch in it.
A more common problem is a worn out throwout bearing. While under the tractor, check it.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Clutch adjustment
It looked to me like the fingers needed to be adjusted, and probably haven't been in a long while.
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Re: Clutch adjustment
Mrblanche wrote:Thanks. Those are pretty much the steps I ascertained from my reading. I really don't want to split this thing to put a new clutch in it.
I know it is some work but so it trying to adjust the clutch with one hand from the access hole.
After I got over my fear and did my first split of the tractor I will not adjust the clutch from the access hole again. One a new to me cub that needed a clutch adjustment I did the split and had it back together in 2 hours.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Apr 27, 2010 11:34 am
- Zip Code: 27517
- Tractors Owned: '51 Cub #140966 "Bruno" with Woods 59 mower
'55 Cub #187541 "Betty" with Fast Hitch
'55 Cub #190482 "Ben" with Woods 42 mower
'55 Cub #191739 "Bertha" with Woods 42 mower
'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: NC, Chapel Hill
Re: Clutch adjustment
My big hesitations in splitting the tractor just for an easier clutch adjustment is you are faced with tank removal, hydraulic system drainage, wiring and control rod disconnection, supporting both halves of the tractor during separation. Then there is the problem of realignment during reassembly, replacing the gasket and o-rings for the hydraulic manifold & refilling with HyTran (expensive).
I personally would rather have a pain in the neck (literally) task, that is done in probably less time than your 2 hour split, with less mess and at the same time have the opportunity to vent all that week's frustrations with a few choice words!!
I personally would rather have a pain in the neck (literally) task, that is done in probably less time than your 2 hour split, with less mess and at the same time have the opportunity to vent all that week's frustrations with a few choice words!!
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Re: Clutch adjustment
If I find that there is some problem, then I will split it and put a new clutch in it. Heck, at that point, I might even fix the fork in the transmission.
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