Blue Devil

[TallCoolOne58]

Here's a suggestion for you to think about. When you bring the engine up to temp, the thermosiphon action will probably put some of the crud and debris into suspension. By allowing the engine to cool overnight, that debris will settle back out to the low points in the system. I'm thinking that you would be better served by draining it shortly after engine shutdown, thereby draining all the suspended crud out. I wouldn't think there would be enough residual heat in the block to cause any problems. Thoughts?

My thoughts are...

I'd like it to cool down and give the hot metal a heat sink while it cools. Maybe letting it sit and soak gives the Blue Devil a chance to dissolve some more crud. Not sure, have no telescopic mini camera to prove either way. I understand what you say about the heavier material, like rust, settling while it cools.

I think draining it, purely by gravity since it's thermosiphon with no obstruction like a closed thermostat gives it kind of a half-assed back flush each and every time I fill and drain it, since some drains out the radiator and some in reverse of normal circulation by flowing back through the outlet elbow, down through the head, water jackets then out the inlet elbow into the bolster and finally into my pail.

Plus I want the engine cold while I fill and drain repeatedly to rinse and flush it out again.

The instructions say to let it cool before draining. I am giving it every opportunity for sucess. Not that if it doesn't i'm out grocery money for the week with the $7.99 invested in the Blue Devil mind you...hey I tried.

[TallCoolOne58]

Tried to post a reply. Didn't go through. Try again.

My thoughts are:

I like the engine to have a heat sink while it cools, and also the label instrauctions say to allow it to cool before draining.

I understand what you're saying, that perhaps more dirt etc. will be in suspension while it drains, like an engine oil change. I'm thinking that since it uses a thermosiphon system, with no thermostat restricting drainage, as it drains, some of the liquid will drain straight out the radiator, some will drain as a sort of back flush by default as it drains down the outlet elbow, through the head, coolant passages in the block, down through the inlet elbow, into the bolster, and finally out the drain into my pail, sets up some turbulence to keep it stirred up some. Combine that with multiple back-to-back repeated flushes and...

Hopefully it will be cleaner than when I started. The end result and proof will be in the pail.

[TallCoolOne58]

Well, for what it's worth, a follow-up.

Drained flush mix. First pail greenish tint with rust particles in pail, like sediment. First refill and drain, light rusty red tint, more sediment. Took about 4 fill and drains to run clear total.

Looked inside radiator neck with flash light. All the greenish brown algae looking slime that was on radiator metal was gone, down to bare copper. Not shiny copper mind you, but 61 year old copper.. White corrosion 'spots' about 50% or so-gone, leaving only smallish occasional ones. Tubes looked clear. I think next time I will let her rip on high idle for a good 30 minutes.

I honestly feel like I got my $8 worth, and my cooling system health went up a few notches.

Put thread sealant on drain pipe threads (cap froze on) screwed back in and tightened. Gonna let it sit for 24 hours, then tomorrow afternoon refill with fresh coolant and distilled water. Fire up and run, inspect for leaks (absolutely none so far) and call the job complete.

[Jim Becker]

. . . refill with fresh coolant and distilled water. . . .

Mix them in a bucket before pouring it in.

[TallCoolOne58]

. . . refill with fresh coolant and distilled water. . . .

Mix them in a bucket before pouring it in.

Absolutely. Gonna do a gallon at a time in pail. Less chance of spills.

[Don McCombs]

Put thread sealant on drain pipe threads (cap froze on) screwed back in and tightened.

Can you show us a photo of that setup? Thanks.

[TallCoolOne58]

Put thread sealant on drain pipe threads (cap froze on) screwed back in and tightened.

Can you show us a photo of that setup? Thanks.

I'm afraid I don't understand Don. All I did was put thread sealant on the drain pipe that screws into the bottom of the bolster. I removed the pipe with cap, because drain pipe cap was frozen (corroded) onto the drain pipe itself, and even after heating with propane torch it didn't want to budge. By rights, I should just go to a plumbing supply store and by a new pipe nipple and cap.I am at a loss as to why you would want a picture of something as mundane as that.

I'd love to post pics but-first obstacle awhile back I dropped my phone and scratched the camera lens, so every picture I try to take looks like it was taken in a smoke filled room. I tried using my better half's phone for pictures, and sending them to my phone, but when I try to post them on this forum it says file too large.

I'll tell you one thing, I am 3/4 tempted to drill and tap a hole, in the top of the 'dome' of the outlet elbow (on a car or truck would be the thermostat housing portion) with a pipe thread tap, buy a pipe nipple and garden hose thread adapter, so next time I can hook up a garden hose and power back flush the engine easy peasy. When done, thread in a pipe plug in the hole.

[staninlowerAL]

Put thread sealant on drain pipe threads (cap froze on) screwed back in and tightened.

Can you show us a photo of that setup? Thanks.

I'm afraid I don't understand Don. All I did was put thread sealant on the drain pipe that screws into the bottom of the bolster. I removed the pipe with cap, because drain pipe cap was frozen (corroded) onto the drain pipe itself, and even after heating with propane torch it didn't want to budge. By rights, I should just go to a plumbing supply store and by a new pipe nipple and cap.I am at a loss as to why you would want a picture of something as mundane as that.


I'll tell you one thing, I am 3/4 tempted to drill and tap a hole, in the top of the 'dome' of the outlet elbow (on a car or truck would be the thermostat housing portion) with a pipe thread tap, buy a pipe nipple and garden hose thread adapter, so next time I can hook up a garden hose and power back flush the engine easy peasy. When done, thread in a pipe plug in the hole.

I have one that the bolster threads were rusted away to the point it would not seal. Unable to rethread to a larger size, I found that a 1/2 inch tubing x pipe thread adapter would thread into the bolster with the tubing threads with sealer and I installed a pipe cap on the other threads. I can get a picture.
A lowboy C60 engine already has the threads on the lower block to radiator fitting.

[TallCoolOne58]

Can you show us a photo of that setup? Thanks.

I'm afraid I don't understand Don. All I did was put thread sealant on the drain pipe that screws into the bottom of the bolster. I removed the pipe with cap, because drain pipe cap was frozen (corroded) onto the drain pipe itself, and even after heating with propane torch it didn't want to budge. By rights, I should just go to a plumbing supply store and by a new pipe nipple and cap.I am at a loss as to why you would want a picture of something as mundane as that.


I'll tell you one thing, I am 3/4 tempted to drill and tap a hole, in the top of the 'dome' of the outlet elbow (on a car or truck would be the thermostat housing portion) with a pipe thread tap, buy a pipe nipple and garden hose thread adapter, so next time I can hook up a garden hose and power back flush the engine easy peasy. When done, thread in a pipe plug in the hole.

I have one that the bolster threads were rusted away to the point it would not seal. Unable to rethread to a larger size, I found that a 1/2 inch tubing x pipe thread adapter would thread into the bolster with the tubing threads with sealer and I installed a pipe cap on the other threads. I can get a picture.
A lowboy C60 engine already has the threads on the lower block to radiator fitting.

The female threads in the bolster for the drain pipe were fine for me (luckily), I only used the thread sealer as a precaution against any potential leaking. I was nervous about having to remove the pipe nipple, believe me. Sometimes you go to do something that should be simple on these old tractors, and you just end up opening a can of worms.

[TallCoolOne58]

Operation 100% successful. Filled, started, after warm-up, ran @ high idle for a good 30 minutes, back down to low idle for 5 minute 'cool down', then shut it down. Ran like a top (only 45 degrees outside). Carefully inspected with flashlight. Not a hint of a leak anywhere.

All hood off maintenance complete, including all new belts, hoses, clamps and spark plugs. Last thing to do is get rear tire chains on. Life is good.

[Frozenstate]

Distilled water is supposedly not good in a cooling system. The idea is that distilled water is more likely to attract metal into it. Water is hungry for other elements and can cause corrosion. Regular clean water has less of a tendency to eat your engine.

[TallCoolOne58]

Distilled water is supposedly not good in a cooling system. The idea is that distilled water is more likely to attract metal into it. Water is hungry for other elements and can cause corrosion. Regular clean water has less of a tendency to eat your engine.

Chlorine is corrosive, along with other minerals generally found in water. Do I think it's a life-altering difference? Nope, but I went to some time, trouble and money to perform some long overdue cooling maintenance and repairs, ignored by PO's. I took the necessary steps so that I would get the 2 years worth out of my fresh green antifreeze, before I do the next cooling system flush and refill. I don't want any leaks. That's what motivated me to start this whole operation.

[Jim Becker]

Antifreeze comes with corrosion inhibitors, which should sate whatever hunger distilled water has. Your best practice is to use antifreeze and change it on occasion. The corrosion inhibitors get used up over time. They are evidently the only part of antifreeze that does get used up and requires it to get changed.

[Mrblanche]

Distilled water is supposedly not good in a cooling system. The idea is that distilled water is more likely to attract metal into it. Water is hungry for other elements and can cause corrosion. Regular clean water has less of a tendency to eat your engine.

I have heard from some very serious engine guys that what you want is de-ionized water, not distilled water. But who has easy access to anything like that?

[Don McCombs]

Not necessarily the most cost effective, but use of the 50/50 pre-mix will eliminate this concern.