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How to hook up a choke
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How to hook up a choke
Hey guys, I recently purchased a cub to what I believe is a 1949. Runs and drives really good but the choke rod isn’t hooked up to the carburetor and I’m not really sure how to do so. Also, what fluid would be best to put in the rear end. It makes a bit of a growling noise. Thanks!
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Re: How to hook up a choke
the rod hooks to a pivot arm that clamps to the choke shaft
- Bill V in Md
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Re: How to hook up a choke
Also, these photos should help: First photo shows choke rod running from the dash to behind carburetor. Second photo shows the attachment of the rod to the pivot arm on the end of the choke shaft, referenced by tst's post. As far as lubrication for the transmission, I use 80-90 Wt gear oil. You can also use HyTran, but I prefer the heavier weight gear oil.
Last edited by Bill V in Md on Mon Oct 29, 2018 8:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
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Re: How to hook up a choke
Trans/finals for yours would be 80-90 wt gear oil. Note the capacity, don't overfill or you will have gear lube leaking out to the brakes.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
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Re: How to hook up a choke
Also you can access and download the manuals from the Quick links tab, top left corner of this page, pdf folder, if you have not done so.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
- Glen
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Re: How to hook up a choke
Hi,
The arm on the IH carburetor usually has to be pointing straight down, when the choke is fully open, for the original length choke rod to fit correctly.
The 1st pic below, from TM Tractor, shows the position.
If you have Touch Control, the rod should not fit tight against the Touch Control tubes, the engine vibration can wear it into the tubes over time. It should fit like the one in the 2nd pic below. If it is too low, and hits the tubes at the curve, try bending the rod more at the bend made in the rod, visible in the pic, that should raise the rod up some.
Below is the 1949 Cub owner's manual, if you don't have it. The experts on here recommend reading it, it has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It has pics of how the Cub was originally.
The recommendation for using motor oil in the Touch Control was changed later, to use Case IH Hy - Tran fluid, Jim Becker has said.
The Lubrication section begins on page 14, and the Lubrication Guide begins on page 18.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub for work.
There are 3 separate gear housings at the rear of a Cub, with 3 separate oil levels to check.
The transmission, and 2 final drives. The owner's manual shows how to check them.
The trans commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.
It is good to check it, and change the oil if water is in it, or if it hasn't been changed lately.
There are other oils also to check or change, they are shown in the owner's manual.
The arm on the IH carburetor usually has to be pointing straight down, when the choke is fully open, for the original length choke rod to fit correctly.
The 1st pic below, from TM Tractor, shows the position.
If you have Touch Control, the rod should not fit tight against the Touch Control tubes, the engine vibration can wear it into the tubes over time. It should fit like the one in the 2nd pic below. If it is too low, and hits the tubes at the curve, try bending the rod more at the bend made in the rod, visible in the pic, that should raise the rod up some.
Below is the 1949 Cub owner's manual, if you don't have it. The experts on here recommend reading it, it has lots of info about operation, maintenance, and lubrication. There is a table of contents on page 1.
It has pics of how the Cub was originally.
The recommendation for using motor oil in the Touch Control was changed later, to use Case IH Hy - Tran fluid, Jim Becker has said.
The Lubrication section begins on page 14, and the Lubrication Guide begins on page 18.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... index.html
I would check or change all the oils before using the Cub for work.
There are 3 separate gear housings at the rear of a Cub, with 3 separate oil levels to check.
The transmission, and 2 final drives. The owner's manual shows how to check them.
The trans commonly get water in them, from rain, or condensation inside the housing over time.
It is good to check it, and change the oil if water is in it, or if it hasn't been changed lately.
There are other oils also to check or change, they are shown in the owner's manual.
- Stanton
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Re: How to hook up a choke
If your carb doesn't have a choke pivot arm, you can make one. Here's a reference in the How To Forum, the Fuel section: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=139&t=100215
Also, a lot of other great info in the How To section under Fuel: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=139
Also, a lot of other great info in the How To section under Fuel: http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=139
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- 5+ Years
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Re: How to hook up a choke
Thanks guys! The choke hook up makes so much sense now! Planning on hooking it up tonight. Last night I drained the gearcase and it had water in it. Gonna get some more 80-90 gear oil to put in it tonight. Thinking I might buy a cheap oil to run through it to clean the water out. Hope my bearings are ok!
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Re: How to hook up a choke
I find it easier to connect the choke to the carb while it is not attached to the manifold. Then connect it to the manifold and attach the fuel line and the air filter hose. Start it, check for leaks and run it through the throttle range.
After leak check adjust the governor to carb linkage per the manual.
After leak check adjust the governor to carb linkage per the manual.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
- Stanton
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Re: How to hook up a choke
Cubguy53 wrote:Thanks guys! The choke hook up makes so much sense now! Planning on hooking it up tonight. Last night I drained the gearcase and it had water in it. Gonna get some more 80-90 gear oil to put in it tonight. Thinking I might buy a cheap oil to run through it to clean the water out. Hope my bearings are ok!
Good. I find using kerosene works well; diesel would also work to flush out the tranny box. Fill to proper level, drive around a bit, drain. Can repeat with fresh kerosene another time or two until you're satisfied it's clean. Might also cut a new gasket for the shifter plate.
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Re: How to hook up a choke
inairam wrote:I find it easier to connect the choke to the carb while it is not attached to the manifold. Then connect it to the manifold and attach the fuel line and the air filter hose. Start it, check for leaks and run it through the throttle range.
After leak check adjust the governor to carb linkage per the manual.
Oh good thought. Might try it that way
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Re: How to hook up a choke
Stanton wrote:Good. I find using kerosene works well; diesel would also work to flush out the tranny box. Fill to proper level, drive around a bit, drain. Can repeat with fresh kerosene another time or two until you're satisfied it's clean. Might also cut a new gasket for the shifter plate.
Do I need to take the shifter plate off?
- Dale Finch
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Re: How to hook up a choke
You may know already, but make sure that when you have finished cleaning the transmission, you refill it with the proper amount of gear oil...it only takes 3 1/2 PINTS, per the LUBRICATION section of the owners manual:
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%208-75/Page%2063.jpg
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20Owner's%20Manuals/McCormick%20Farmall%20Cub%20Operator's%20Manual%208-75/Page%2063.jpg
- Stanton
- Cub Pro
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1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: How to hook up a choke
Cubguy53 wrote:Stanton wrote:Good. I find using kerosene works well; diesel would also work to flush out the tranny box. Fill to proper level, drive around a bit, drain. Can repeat with fresh kerosene another time or two until you're satisfied it's clean. Might also cut a new gasket for the shifter plate.
Do I need to take the shifter plate off?
You do NOT need to replace the gasket just to change the tranny oil. The fill plug on top, the drain plug on the bottom and the full-level plug on the side are all the access points you need to mess with. BUT, if you suspect moisture is entering into the tranny (i.e. sitting out in the rain, etc.), then you may want to remove the shifter plate, inspect and perhaps install a new gasket. You can make one easily enough with an X-Acto knife, hole punch and gasket material from your local auto parts store. By the way, even if you park under cover or in a non-heated garage, changing temperatures will form condensation inside your tranny that will accumulate over time. Always good to drain/flush/refill it on a regular basis.
Caution: be sure to have a large hopper or funnel ready to receive the old fluid once that drain plug is past its last turn...it'll come out with some force and volume.
Follow the Lubrication Guide in your Manual, as Dale has provided above, for the correct amount.
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Re: How to hook up a choke
[/quote]You do NOT need to replace the gasket just to change the tranny oil. The fill plug on top, the drain plug on the bottom and the full-level plug on the side are all the access points you need to mess with. BUT, if you suspect moisture is entering into the tranny (i.e. sitting out in the rain, etc.), then you may want to remove the shifter plate, inspect and perhaps install a new gasket. You can make one easily enough with an X-Acto knife, hole punch and gasket material from your local auto parts store. By the way, even if you park under cover or in a non-heated garage, changing temperatures will form condensation inside your tranny that will accumulate over time. Always good to drain/flush/refill it on a regular basis.
Caution: be sure to have a large hopper or funnel ready to receive the old fluid once that drain plug is past its last turn...it'll come out with some force and volume.
Follow the Lubrication Guide in your Manual, as Dale has provided above, for the correct amount.[/quote]
Ok makes sense! Thanks
Caution: be sure to have a large hopper or funnel ready to receive the old fluid once that drain plug is past its last turn...it'll come out with some force and volume.
Follow the Lubrication Guide in your Manual, as Dale has provided above, for the correct amount.[/quote]
Ok makes sense! Thanks
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