49 cub restoration project

[MAGNETO]

Awesome job, Spencer!

[IHCFan1950]

That engine looks beautiful! Keep up the good work, and that tractor will be a show winner! The smile says it all!

[rockfarmer]

Spencer,

You're doing a great job on the restore. Good luck with your presentation tomorrow. I'm sure you are going to educate some folks.

[Spencer]

Hi, i took off the left fender on my cub with no problems, but when I went to take off the right one, I noticed that of the 6 bolts holding the wheel on, I would have to take 4 of them off to get the fender off. Is it safe to take out the four bolts, or should I put something underneath the tractor to hold it up?

[Glen]

Hi,
I guess you are taking both rear fenders off.
They are both held on the same way, with 4, 3/8" bolts.
There are 6 bolts in a circle, they hold the final drives on the tractor. You would be removing the top 4 bolts, be sure the bottom 2 bolts are there, and tight, and the threads not stripped or worn on the left side. The right side has nuts on the bolts.
You could jack up the rear to support the weight if you want. Don't drive it with the bolts removed.

Below is a pic from TM Tractor of a final drive, you can see the 6 bolt holes, there should be 2 dowel pins also, at the top and bottom holes.

[cjack]

So here I am hijacking my son's thread again. After a year of disassembling, cleaning, etc, we are getting ready for the serious painting.

An IH collector I know recommended an automotive urethane paint. He uses this product outside with a respirator but after talking to the automotive paint store and doing online research, I concluded that at best we would want a positive pressure mask or suit to use this stuff . I have other young children running around and it doesn't seem like the right product to put in the hands of my 15 year old.

So the automotive paint store offered to mix up an acrylic enamel without hardener matched to the right red.

Our other option is rattle cans of Iron Guard Case IH Enamel, IH 2150. We have tested with this on a few parts and to me it looks just fine. This tractor will be lightly used and stored indoors. It may see some shows but is not intended as a show queen.

Another factor is that I have no paint spray equipment, and my compressor is too small for spraying, so I will have to borrow or buy equipment if we use anything other than rattle cans.

So my main question, is an automotive acrylic enamel without hardener superior in any way to the Case IH Ironguard? I kinda feel the rattle can technology of today might even be a superior paint to the one used in production in 1949. Opinions?

[Mht]

I have refurbished two cubs and am working in a third. I have used rustoleum rusty metal primer and rustoleum IH red farm and implement paint all from rattle cans. I have spray equipment but chose not to use it because I was priming and painting as I disassembled and cleaned parts in my electrolysis tank. I’m sure it would have been cheaper to buy primer and paint by the gallon than buying spray cans and the ironguard paint might be better paint than rustoleum but I’m happy with the paint job I got but it took three or four coats to satisfy me. My tractors are working tractors but I wouldn’t think twice about taking them to a show or parade. I was more concerned with protecting them from the elements than an absolute perfect paint job. I felt like I got a better paint job with rattle cans by painting as I went than by painting the whole tractor after I refurbished everything mechanical. Using my sprayer and cleaning it after painting a few parts at the time just didn’t make sense to me but then my shop is not big enough to keep the tractors in until I could have painted the whole tractor at once. If you take your time you can get a nice paint job with rattle cans

[ctltmp]

Just my 2 cents....
If you plan to shoot a second coat of acrylic enamel use hardener. Some paint requires a hardener some don't. Follow the manufacturer's instructions. There are some paints that should or shouldn't be in direct sunlight (I learned that the hard way on probably the best paint job I ever did).

Personally I prefer to paint all the small stuff out of a rattle can, or get a small Prevail aerosol kit and use the paint you'll be using on the rest of the tractor. Once the small stuff is done I paint in 2 stages. The first is the rolling chassis. Of you plan on replacing wheels and tires just paint away. Otherwise cover anything you don't want red. The second stage the hood gos on saw horses and I hang the fenders to spray.

I have better spray guns, but the harbor freight hvlp guns do a decent enough job set up correctly. Get a good mask, disposable one piece suit and head sock from your paint supply store. Be in an open area where you have plenty of room to work around all sides. I spread a big tarp over the area so the grass or driveway doesn't get paint on it, and be sure no vehicles are nearby. It's amazing how far overspray can travel. I also wet the area down with a hose to prevent moving any dust around that can end up in the paint.

Hope this gives you some ideas, and good luck on your paint job. Things look great so far!

[steves47150]

You are right to be concerned about using automotive paint that requires hardner. BUT used properly not only are they safe, but you would be hard pressed to find a more durable finish. A good quality resperator that has the replaceable carbon filters, and the very inexpensive full body disposable suits make it very safe. i do prefer painting inside, to minimize the bugs that think they are kamikize pilots out to destroy your paint job. But it requires lots of air flow. A cheap furnace filter in one end of building to allow filtered fresh air in, and a fan pulling a "vacuum" on the other end does just that. lots of water on the floor keeps down the dust, and helps with over spray. And draep a chain over an axle, and let it touch the floor to drain off static electricty. I think it helps reduce dust attraction. Hope this helps.

[Don McCombs]

Read and follow the paint manufacturer's recommendations for use of proper PPE when using hardener. If you don't want to spend the money for the proper PPE, don't use the paint.

[Jim Becker]

As Don said, proper PPE is REQUIRED if you use hardener. A carbon filter respirator is not adequate. I strongly encourage anyone considering use of hardener to read this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=39149

[Spencer]

Hi, I recently found a possible blade for my cub on kijiji. However, I am not entirely sure if it is the correct one. These are the two photos I have of it. Advice would be appreciated!
Thanks, Spencer.

[Bob McCarty]

It looks to me like the blade and wishbone are right. However, the correct lift arms,and several other pieces are missing or have been replaced with something homemade. I think I'd stay away from it unless you could see how it mounted on a Cub and if you were okay with the alterations. Here's a link to TM Tractor that shows the correct parts:
http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gim ... et_001.htm

[Jim Becker]

It is an A-60 blade for a Super A. People have made them fit, but you know . . .

[Bob McCarty]

Jim, Thanks for correctly posting what it is.