We're getting close to rewiring our '48 after an extensive cosmetic restoration, and before we start connecting our new wiring harness, I'm wondering where on the tractor should be bare steel contact so there's no strange electrical problems?
Thanks in advance for any help/advice you all may provide!
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Cub electrical grounds?
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Re: Cub electrical grounds?
I can't name them all but keep in mind that the electrical all grounds to the frame so anywhere equipment is mounted i.e. starter, VR. lighting, dash, switches etc. will have to have bare metal contact for the systems to work properly.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
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Re: Cub electrical grounds?
I would start by making sure there is bare metal where the starter meets the bell housing. Bare metal on both flanges. Make sure your magneto is grounded properly as well. I recently had mine split and made sure there was bare metal between both halves as well.... that ensured that my Voltatge regulator ground has a path back to the battery. As for the battery. Mine is grounded to one of the transmission top cover bolts.... Been that way for many years with no problems.
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Re: Cub electrical grounds?
The tail light of the older tractors (with one wire) uses the chassis for ground and is often overlooked when being painted. So each part of the bracket attaching it to the battery box needs to have a bare metal contact area.
Unless you are going to ground the battery to a transmission cover bolt, the battery box needs bare spots where the battery bolts to the platform...the spots on the bottom of the box AND the corresponding spots on the platform where the bolts attach.
As mentioned, both sides of the mating surfaces of the starter.
On earlier tractors, the headlights must have bare attachment spots from the bulb to the chassis, too.
Unless you are going to ground the battery to a transmission cover bolt, the battery box needs bare spots where the battery bolts to the platform...the spots on the bottom of the box AND the corresponding spots on the platform where the bolts attach.
As mentioned, both sides of the mating surfaces of the starter.
On earlier tractors, the headlights must have bare attachment spots from the bulb to the chassis, too.
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Re: Cub electrical grounds?
Also bare the bottom of the battery box and the bolt flats on the axle casting.
I also like the use the flat braided ground wired and ground the battery to the bolts on the bottom of the battery box and not to the sheet metal of the box.
If you have a regulator It is a good idea to make sure the mounting plate is bared and or run a wire to the mount for the generator.
I also like the use the flat braided ground wired and ground the battery to the bolts on the bottom of the battery box and not to the sheet metal of the box.
If you have a regulator It is a good idea to make sure the mounting plate is bared and or run a wire to the mount for the generator.
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
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Re: Cub electrical grounds?
Thanks for all the advice, gents!
I have a cutout. Should it be bare where connected to the generator?
I have a cutout. Should it be bare where connected to the generator?
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Re: Cub electrical grounds?
Does the mag switch need bare metal contact to the dash, and dash to tractor bare as well?
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Re: Cub electrical grounds?
Hi,
I think the parts you mentioned above need some bare metal to ground.
I think the parts you mentioned above need some bare metal to ground.
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Re: Cub electrical grounds?
Glen wrote:I think the parts you mentioned above need some bare metal to ground.
Otherwise, it will try to ground out through you, which is no fun.
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54 Blade
Re: Cub electrical grounds?
Pick up some of this put on all electrical connections and grounds before assembly helps seal out moisture and protects against corrosion
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