Throwout bearing

[ScottyG]

Hi gang,

Well I just dropped the engine today and thankfully, my crank, rods, pistons all look to be in good shape. I pulled the pressure plate and the clutch disc even looks good. The only funky thing at the moment looks to be the throwout bearing. It's got some chunks missing out of it so I'm assuming I'd be better off with a replacement. Can you ever find these used or shouldn't I bother and just go with a new one?

[Eugene]

New throw out bearing. Don't bother with a used one or use your old one.

If you purchase the gasket set from the advertisers on this site, they also have the throw out bearing.

Eugene

[John Niekamp]

Scotty,

I have heard it time and time again NOT to buy ANY carbon TOB other than from Case/IH, even my local tractor parts supply house told me the same thing and they even carry a inferrior TOB for the cub. He said and I quote,

"John, to save you money and time, don't buy the one we sell and drive across the steet and get you an genuine throw out bearing from IH, you won't regret it"

So with his and the advice here, I have a genuine Case/IH TOB for both of my cubs. I don't kow what is the difference is or anything. I have heard horror stories about the Bates roller bearing ones as well. that has been discuss here many times over.

John

[ScottyG]

As always, thanks for the tips guys.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Scotty, I'll second John. buy one form your IH delaer. they are prelubricated, and will last much longer. I learned the hard wayt about 10 years ago. Went through 3 aftermarket ones in 4 years before I went to dealer and bought one.

[Dale51]

I'll 3rd it don't mess with after market throw out bearings
unless you like to spend money & tear your tractor apart.
As John stated also I learned the hard way.

[John Niekamp]

Kinda make me wonder what makes the IH so much better than the aftermarket ones. I mean next to one another they look about the same. must just be a different grade of material.

[George Willer]

Kinda make me wonder what makes the IH so much better than the aftermarket ones. I mean next to one another they look about the same. must just be a different grade of material.

John,

Here's one possibility... The IH TOB comes pre-lubed, and the aftermarket ones don't. What we really need to find out is whether the aftermarket ones that failed early were properly lubed when installed. Tyke, who I plan to use to plow snow this winter had an aftermarket one installed six years ago. Everything seems hunky dory so far.

[John Niekamp]

That's a very good idea George, something that I really didn't give it much attention to at the time. I saw the bottom line price that it was half maybe even less, than a IH one so naturally I figured something was the reason for it.

That might be a theory we may have to look in on, I guess that means i may just have to buy one more just to test it out. LOL

John

[Dale51]

John,

Here's one possibility... The IH TOB comes pre-lubed, and the aftermarket ones don't. What we really need to find out is whether the aftermarket ones that failed early were properly lubed when installed. Tyke, who I plan to use to plow snow this winter had an aftermarket one installed six years ago. Everything seems hunky dory so far.

I think that this may have a bearing on it as the ones from IH sit on the shelf for ? months , years ? with the oil in the grease soaking in.
After market come dry so how long does it take for the oil in the grease to soak in ?

Another thought is there are two types of pressure plates I don't remember
the names but do remember that one has 3 rounded fingers and the other has around 10 fingers that are flat.
Has anybody ever ask which style of pressure plate was used on the ones that failed quickly?
The ones that I have had fail were mostly the flat style but not all.about 3 flat & 2 rounded almost 50 50.
There are a lot of other variables here also , one finger higher, TOB fork
bent , pin that holds TOB fork worn so it twists to one side,two sides not even with other, is the graphite square in the cast piece,
is the graphite harder in one or the other, and so on I sure you can think of others!!

[ScottyG]

Probably a good time to further the discussion and ask, how do you know when you need to replace the bearing. As I told all of you above, mine has chunks missing out of it so it's got to go. But under normal conditions, is it a lack of engagement on the clutch? A measurement on the bearing itself? What?

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Dale, both of the clutches for cubs had 3 fingers. If you have some with multiple falt fingers, they have been repalced with a different brand pressure plate than original.

The aftermarket throwout bearings I have delat with had no grease in the back, and the graphite was a lighter shade, almost grey instead of black, though the IH ones were prelubed, which may have made them look darker. The Ih ones I have recieved didn't have any grease in them either, so I assume the lubrication in the graphite was done at the factory.

Scotty, normal rule of thub is if it is cracked or pieces missing, or worn down to the point you can't adjust the clutch pedal and or fingers to get good operation without the carrier hitting the fingers it is time to replace it.

[johnbron]

I asked this question a year or more ago and never did get an answer so I am gonna ask again.


Q: With all the different brands & types of grease available today for our grease-guns which is the preferred one for quick or slower release (Seperation) of the oils in the grease to penetrate the graphite?. I am wondering if certain types will not release the oils in the grease.

[(CUB HUT)]

The throwout bearings in my 48 & 53 are aftermarket ,Tractor Supply. installed 4 & 5 years ago. Everything seems to be OK.
Of coerce I have been known to over grease all my stuff.This time it might have paid off.

[Bigdog]

I asked this question a year or more ago and never did get an answer so I am gonna ask again.


Q: With all the different brands & types of grease available today for our grease-guns which is the preferred one for quick or slower release (Seperation) of the oils in the grease to penetrate the graphite?. I am wondering if certain types will not release the oils in the grease.

JB - I believe any petroleum based grease will work fine. I'm not sure about any of the synthetic based lubes.