Need new engine - Help.

[ScottyG]

Hi folks,

Many of you have convinced me to go ahead and buy a replacement engine due to some cracks that have formed on the "ears" of my Cub.

I have many many questions that I'm hoping you can all help me out with.

1) I'm looking at replacement blocks from TMTractor. The available ones have different casting dates and cylinder diameters. Given that my Cub is a 1948. Should I be concerned with the casting date or will any engine fit?

2) Most of the cylinder bores are between 2.628 and 2.629. Keep in mind that my Cub is a hobby tractor and I'm not ready to invest lots and lots of $$ at this point. What am I in for for other parts besides the block? I expect rings but if cylinder bore spec was originally 2.625-2.627, what should I be expecting here?

3) I want to obviously try to swap as many parts from my old engine to the new one. As long as my crank, rods and pistons meet spec, is there any reason why I'd need to replace these? Bearings I would most likely replace.

4) I see that the newer blocks have a long style fill tube. I'm assuming that if I purchased one of these, I'll need a new dip stick?

5) Oh and... what in the world is magnafluxing?

[Patbretagne]

Hi Scotty, what a bummer! So sorry to hear you have to go down such a drastic road.
I won't comment too much on piston size etc and whether they'l fit, but certainly I am sure, to be confirmed by the experts, that any Cub engine of similar date will fit, the only thing against, is that the casting letters won't tally with the real age of the tractor.
The other questions over to the gang,
Bad Luck
Pat.

[Rudi]

Scotty:

Unless you really care about having close matches on the casting dates/serial numbers, it is not a problem. A C-60 is a C -60 when replacing the block from all I have come to understand.

Remember, many C-60's were used for other applications, that is why after the first few months of production, casting dates no longer really matched up. This has been a constant comment in hundreds of posts and threads over the last couple years.

Many a Cub has been brought back to life with a Power Unit from a baler or some other unit powered by a C-60. So I really don't think it is a concern.

But hey, that is just my opinion, and I am no expert...

[George Willer]

Scotty,

Casting dates are casting dates, but serial numbers get out of whack because of the engines being numbered consecutively and some being used for other applications.

I don't know how far you would consider driving for an engine, but the engine from Rambo was cast April 28, 1948. I don't know its' internal condition but the "ears" look good. If you have any interest, I can look it over more carefully and figure out a value.

I feel a little strange suggesting you change engines and then offering one!

The trip to pick up Rambo was an overnighter.

[George Willer]

Scotty,

I re-read your post and see other questions that need answering.

Magnafluxing is just as the name suggests... inductively magnetizing the object and adding powdered iron. A break shows up as a disrupted pattern in the powder.

Any C-60 engine from any year will fit your tractor.

The dipstick and tube should be kept together. There's no reason you couldn't change your tube if both it and the dipstick are in good condition.

[400lbsonacubseatspring]

Scotty, if George's engine checks out ok, maybe some of us can play, "pass the engine" and get it on up to you. I think Henry has aroused universal sympathy....
And, you can part out the rest of Henry's defective engine, and sell it on eBay to recover some of the costs (just warn all of us, if you decide to list the block...LOL)
Also, Our resident parts Guru, Ralph Napier has a nice looking block on Ebay right now, that probably isn't going to meet reserve. You may want to contact him about it. He's in KY, though.http://cgi.ebay.com/Farmall-cub-Intern-cub-C-60-engine-block_W0QQitemZ7556651400QQcategoryZ63967QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Eugene]

ScottyG Hi folks

2) Most of the cylinder bores are between 2.628 and 2.629. Keep in mind that my Cub is a hobby tractor and I'm not ready to invest lots and lots of $$ at this point. What am I in for for other parts besides the block? I expect rings but if cylinder bore spec was originally 2.625-2.627, what should I be expecting here?

This block is only .003 over size so it's within the standard sized piston and rings range.

3) I want to obviously try to swap as many parts from my old engine to the new one. As long as my crank, rods and pistons meet spec, is there any reason why I'd need to replace these? Bearings I would most likely replace.

Biggest problem will be the cylinder bore size - matching up pistons to bore. If your current engine still has standard sized pistons - ok - in reference to question 2. If your block has larger (rebored) pistons - won't work without being machined.

I think it's time to put Henry on the back burner for a while. Do some research, crunch some numbers, look around - then decide.

I have a Cub engine laying on the shop floor that someone can have. Standard sized crank - needs turned. Valves shot - needs all new valves. Significant ring groove. Pistons -??. Block gunked up but solid? No head. Was running last weekend so you know it's a good old engine - or perhaps not.

Eugene

[ScottyG]

Well that's why this site is absolutely the best with its great support and friends. You all know that you're the reason you've driven me into this obsessive compulsive Farmall thing right? My wife thanks you....


It think you've all convinced me that the cast number is no big deal. I'm not one for absolutely keeping my Cub OEM. Hey, I'm planning to mount an in-dash oil gauge But George, if you could check on Rambo's engine, I'd sincerely appreciate it. I'm more or less in an overnight shot from Ohio (3.0 - 3.5 hrs to Niagara Falls) so I could arrange to pick the block up. Figure out a value if you could and let me know.

Thanks for the tip 400, let's see what George can find out and I can try Ralph as well. Pass the engine is a great thing but I don't believe George is too far out where I couldn't go and get it. Now Pat on the other hand...

Eugene, with a ring groove in the cylinders I'm assuming a re-bore would need to be done, right? Everything that I've seen on mine appears that when the repair was made to the ears, it looks as though it was re-ringed as well but for a standard size. Its a great engine with no significant wear that I can tell and hummed like a tune. The only thing lacking on it is the cracks. Talking to the old owner, he told me that he'd never done significant work on it so, you never know what I'll need to replace in the end. However, if I can get a block where I don't need to do anything to it, so much the better. Do you have any idea what your bore size is currently? I have a honer but that's about it. Anything in addition, I'd have to probably spend some $$ to make work. I guess the only thing I'm worried about at the moment is pushing snow around in another month. Knowing this area, by December 1. Doesn't give me a lot of time which is why I'm probably pushing a bit too much.

Thanks!

[Eugene]

Scotty:

CRS - hapened twice today. I had the ridge remover sitting on the bench in the basement along with other Cub parts to install - forgot to pick it up. Got to the shop, disassemble and cleaned up the distributor. Threw the distributor parts in a bucket to take back to the house to further clean and reassemble - forgot the breaker plate - it's still sitting on the parts washer drain board.

Reference the ridge. I will cut the ridge out and measure the bore and pistons tomorrow. This engine has considerable carbon buildup - so hard to tell exactly how much ridge is actually carbon and/or metal.

A ridge does not necessarily mean that the block has to be rebored.

This engine is 50 years old and not orignal to the Cub. The crank is/was standard. However, that doesn't mean that the block has not been bored.

Eugene

[ScottyG]

Eugene,

If you've got time and can go ahead and check the cylinders on your engine, I'd really appreciate. Similarly as George, if you're looking to pass it on, work up a value and let me know what you think.

Thanks for help. This is great.

[Jack Donovan]

Scotty, I thought you had a power unit ? Take that and overhaul it and put that in your cub, Your present cub engine should work good for the power unit as it uses a different front motor mount. Walla,Killed two birds with one stone"

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Scotty, Dave has a good point. another suggestion is to ocntact JP Tractor. they frequently have pretty good deals on rebuilt enignes.

[George Willer]

Scotty,

I checked Rambo's old engine and it isn't what you want. It has been bored +.040" and not very carefully. There is a lot of variation detween cylinders. I guess it is a boat anchor. Pity... it is in pretty good shape otherwise.

[ScottyG]

Too bad, George. I'll just keep looking I think.

Jack, no power unit here. Might be ScottyD you're thinking of.

If no other engine comes my way, I agree with you, John, TM Tractor will be the best bet.

Thanks all.

Scott

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Yeah, we have a tendancy to mix up the 2 Scottys.