New cub needing a bit o help for the 2nd in the family now

[1Cubaddict]

Picked up a new Farmall Cub not sure of year was told it was a 50 data plate is barely legible has some form of serial number and the max RPM trying to figure out how to decipher serial numbers or stampings on the engine and transmission housing going to need some parts for it. It does run and does drive , makes a little bit of noise in reverse and 1st and the steering is definitely wacky lol
Would like to know how to post pics up as I am a newbie here , any help will go a long way.

[Glen]

Hi,
If it is a 1950 Cub, the serial number will have 5 or 6 numbers, look at it closely with a good light, and change the angle of the light, you might be able to read it. The first number is 1 on a 1950 Cub, if the serial number is 100000 or more.
There is an engine serial number also. Is is stamped into the block. It is not the same as the tractor serial number, but not hugely different, unless the engine has been replaced, then it could be any serial number.
Below is a page from the 1950 Cub owner's manual showing the serial number locations.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2002.jpg

There are casting codes cast in the castings of Cubs. You can figure out what year the castings were made with the codes. You have to find the codes on your Cub.
Below is info from TM Tractor showing the location of the casting codes, and info for reading the codes.
The clutch housing code is usually partly behind the clutch pedal.

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/castdate_loc.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/id/id_004.htm

TM Tractor says IH changed the serial number plate style in 1950, so it might have the style below. The manual pic above shows the style before that, but It looks like they did not update the manual yet when it was made.

Edit,
The 1950 Cubs were serial numbers 99536 - 121453 so, the number could have 5 numbers, and the first number could be a 9.
1950 production began when they had almost reached 100,000.

[1Cubaddict]

Cubm101747 is engine serial just above oil fill.
6 T on plate directly beside oil fill
251341r2 L also directly beside oil fill
The serial plate is only on by lower 2 rivits and the numbers are fairly stamped can still read and this is what's on it.....100932. And 1800 I'm guessing is Max RPM. The previous owner said something about a demonstration model??! Not sure here.
Still trying to figure how to post pictures too...

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you found some numbers. Yes, the 1800 is the maximum engine RPM.

The Demonstrator Cubs were made by IH in 1950. They were mostly white, with a few red parts.
Not all 1950 Cubs were demonstrator Cubs, only part of the year's production. They made red Cubs then also.
Look around on yours for white paint, under the hood, and in hidden places, and under the red paint, if yours has been painted red.
The white usually looks old nowadays, if it is original.
IH made other models of Demonstrators also, the bigger than Cub models.
Below are pics of Demonstrator Cubs that have been restored.

[1Cubaddict]

I've looked for the white paint but o er the years I believe it has been painted several times as the paint chips that flaked off the engine block (trying to get cast numbers) we're fairly thick!
I'm going to get some better pics and try to attach some tomorrow. This cub is in fairly good shape. The touch control box under fuel tank seems to have a bit of a leak and upon washing this tractor ,under years of grease and grime I have come to find a few spots where the housing for touch control hydraulic components has been brazed a few times .....
Otherwise it all seems to run ok and operate good other than no brakes.....lol the project list is ever growing....

[Dale Finch]

Repairing the brakes requires removing the rear finals, a bit of a chore, but fairly straightforward. Now THAT would be a super project to get help with at the DSCF (Deep South CubFest) in Feb next year!

Those guys and gals would help you get that done in no time!

[Glen]

Hi,
You could buy another Touch Control block complete online, one without breaks and repairs, then it won't leak from that.
Probably give it a rebuild with new o rings before using it. TM Tractor has rebuild kits for that.

Here is info for replacing the brakes, and the oil seals on the shafts the brake drums are on.
The area where the brakes are should be dry, no oil there.
You can look in the area where the brakes are with a light, there are holes in the final drive castings where the brake rods go into the housings, and on the rear of the housings. You can probably see if it looks oily.

The transmission can be overfull, from water getting in the trans, from rain, or condensation, a common problem. Then the oil can run out the oil seals onto the brakes.

Check the trans oil level, if you haven't lately. The trans holds 3 1/2 pints of oil.
The filler plug is on top of the trans, to the rear of the shifter,
the oil level plug is low on the left side of the trans case,
the drain plug is on the bottom of the case, visible from under the platform.

Water will sit in the bottom of the trans, if there is much water in it.
If the trans oil is ok, and no water in the trans, then the seals need replacing, if they are leaking.
The seals get old, and leak, then the brake gets soaked with oil.


Below is a post by Dale Finch showing working on a Cub final drive. You can look at it and learn much about the repair.
It is easier to buy new brake bands than replace the lining, TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has them. It's your choice which to buy.

There is also an oil seal in each final drive, behind the brake drum, that is not shown in the post. They should be replaced if you have the final drive off the Cub, if they haven't been replaced in years.
So there is a total of 4 oil seals on the 2 upper shafts that the brakes are on, 2 on the left side, and 2 on the right side.
TM Tractor has new seals also. They are 2 different sizes.

viewtopic.php?f=142&t=78436

Below is a pic from TM Tractor showing the brake and seal.

[1Cubaddict]

[CubHunter]

That shade of red looks really familiar lol

[staninlowerAL]

The mower looks a lot like a BUSH HOG 412.

[1Cubaddict]

It is indeed a bush hog 412 , it works good but definitely need to find a blade for it lol it's a few inches short of length and now sports rounded edge.....
The hub or spindle (not sure- where the shaft goes that pulley and blade mount) decided it wanted to break beside the 2 mount bolts today after I was trying it out mowing the yard. Also notice the bearings and seals need replaced after the belt and deck were taken off the tractor too..
I installed a gm style 1wire alternator , pertronix ignition , new battery and plugs with new wires and cap. She runs really good and smooth other than a little spit and sputter here and there.
She holds a steady 67 psi of oil pressure at temp , no abnormal noises from engine. Temp seems to hover around 140 ish with the new radiator.
The list of things is ever growing to get the ol girl back in shape but she will get there!

[staninlowerAL]

Bush Hog 412 manual is in the manuals at Quick Links tab. Messicks lists the replacement blade, you might also get some info by contacting Bush Hog in Selma, AL. A lot of the replacement parts are obsolete and occasionally can be purchased used. I have some info on bearings and seals if you want it send me a PM
EDIT: Bush Hog part number 900 is the replacement blade. Messicks lists it as part number 900BH, available for $137.41. Look for it at the page that lists the Pulley-Bushing-Bearing-Box All models.

[Glen]

Hi,
The Cubs are supposed to have a 35 psi maximum pressure oiling system.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing it, towards the bottom of the page.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-08.jpg

The oil gauge could be reading wrong, you could put in another gauge and see what it reads, to test it.
Or the pressure relief valve could be stuck, or have the wrong spring, etc.
Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the oil pressure regulator parts. They are numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4 in the pic, on the right side of the page.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-19.jpg

I have read on here that the valve, number 1 in the pic, can get tight in the bore, then it needs freeing, so it moves freely.
The parts are located at the right front of the engine, and the part you see is a large hex head plug. You probably need to remove the top bolt that holds the front on the Cub to get the plug out.

[1Cubaddict]

Hi,
The Cubs are supposed to have a 35 psi maximum pressure oiling system.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing it, towards the bottom of the page.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-08.jpg

The oil gauge could be reading wrong, you could put in another gauge and see what it reads, to test it.
Or the pressure relief valve could be stuck, or have the wrong spring, etc.
Below is a page from the Cub parts manual showing the oil pressure regulator parts. They are numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4 in the pic, on the right side of the page.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 012-19.jpg

I have read on here that the valve, number 1 in the pic, can get tight in the bore, then it needs freeing, so it moves freely.
The parts are located at the right front of the engine, and the part you see is a large hex head plug. You probably need to remove the top bolt that holds the front on the Cub to get the plug out.

Sounds like better check that out .....sooner than later. Thanks for the bits of information there glen greatly appreciated!!

[Glen]

Hi,
I have a new Case IH spring for the oil pressure regulator, it measures right at 3" long, if you need to check the length of the spring.
Below are listings with pics of the parts at TM Tractor.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/537fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/671fp.htm

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/en/492fp.htm