So my son’s cub has developed a slight miss at idle and then when getting bogged down really tonto miss and die out. I thought it might be fuel flow but checked all that and it was set up like it should be.
Next up was the ignition. Pulled the distributor cap and looked at it and the rotor and noticed a lot of corrosion. So I’m order a new cap, rotor, points and condenser to get it back on track. My question is what would cause this. My son runs his cub just about daily for at least 15 minutes so it wouldn’t be from lack of use. Is there any sort of protectant I can’t put in he contacts.
Thanks.
Keith.
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Corrosion on Distributor cap and rotor
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Re: Corrosion on Distributor cap and rotor
Moisture/condensation. WD-40.
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Re: Corrosion on Distributor cap and rotor
Put silicone dielectric compound on the cap contacts and on the rotor. Keep it away from the points. That helps.
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Re: Corrosion on Distributor cap and rotor
use a cap with brass inserts, not aluminum
- J3 Driver
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Re: Corrosion on Distributor cap and rotor
Got it all fixed up last night. Think I found the problem. The fact the the gap was at least an 1/8 inch certainly wasn’t helping things. I’m surprised the thing actually ran at all.
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Re: Corrosion on Distributor cap and rotor
Hi,
TM Tractor has points and other tune up parts. It says the points and condenser are Case IH parts.
Below are pages from the late 1955 Cub owner's manual showing servicing the points.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2041.jpg
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2042.jpg
You can scrape and sand the corrosion off the cap contacts, and rotor, and see if they look good. If they are burned much, new parts are better.
The rotor should turn a few degrees when it is on it's shaft, that is the spark advance mechanism movement.
Put a few drops of motor oil on the felt in the end of the shaft the rotor is on, like it shows in the manual pic. The shaft can get tight without lubrication, then the spark advance won't work.
You should set the ignition timing with a timing light after replacing the points, the timing affects the starting, and engine power
TM Tractor has points and other tune up parts. It says the points and condenser are Case IH parts.
Below are pages from the late 1955 Cub owner's manual showing servicing the points.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2041.jpg
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2042.jpg
You can scrape and sand the corrosion off the cap contacts, and rotor, and see if they look good. If they are burned much, new parts are better.
The rotor should turn a few degrees when it is on it's shaft, that is the spark advance mechanism movement.
Put a few drops of motor oil on the felt in the end of the shaft the rotor is on, like it shows in the manual pic. The shaft can get tight without lubrication, then the spark advance won't work.
You should set the ignition timing with a timing light after replacing the points, the timing affects the starting, and engine power
Last edited by Glen on Wed Jun 20, 2018 9:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Corrosion on Distributor cap and rotor
Be careful with aftermarket points. Some have brittle spring, that break. Some stay open, due to weak springs. I recently had a cub that wouldn't start, after sitting all winter. Points were stuck open. Aftermarket points put in by PO.
Ed
Ed
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Re: Corrosion on Distributor cap and rotor
Hi,
At least one of the experts on here has posted the number of the NAPA points for the Cub before.
At least one of the experts on here has posted the number of the NAPA points for the Cub before.
Last edited by Glen on Fri Jun 22, 2018 5:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- J3 Driver
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1995 JD F525
1998 JD 955 with 70A loader and 54 blade
JD 71 planter modified for use on Sleevehitch
Brinly plow, disk, and cultivator.
Son has a 1957 Cub with fast hitch, snowplow, 194 plow, disk, carryall, Mott fast hitch flail mower, and windbreaker
1942 John Deere H - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Corrosion on Distributor cap and rotor
All the replacement parts I used were genuine IH parts. In the long run they aren’t really more expensive. And I did use a light to time everything one it was back together. Th cub runs much better now.
Thanks all.
Thanks all.
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