Governor control

[JLollis]

About a month ago, I purchased a '48 Cub that used to belong to my grandfather. It need a fair amount of work. One of the problems that I have is that the piece that connects the governor control rod to the the housing assembly is broken. It was stuck on the shaft and would not move. After many attempts to free the part, the ring that the control rod connects to broke. I want to know if anyone sells this part alone, or do you have to buy an entire governor housing assembly?

[Rudi]

J:

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

As you can see by the image below, the whole governor assembly is not required. Parts are available. This is from the TC-37F Parts Catalog as described in the follow on Welcome Wagon text.



The first thing I would suggest you do is determine which is the exact part that broke. Then, if you have a local CaseIH Dealer available, try them and see if the parts guys can find the part number. Any competent counterperson should be able to do it. CaseIH just issued a new database for updated part numbers, so they should be able to find it.

If your local dealer cannot help you or you do not have one, then I would suggest you get hold of Bermuda Ken Updike at Carter & Grunewald who is a very knowledgeable Parts Guru at that Case Dealership.

You might also want to check with our site sponsors. These are John and Jamie over at JP Tractor Salvage and Tom and Lynn over at TM Tractor Parts. They may be able to supply you with a used part.

Let us know how you make out. Please keep us posted. And enjoy the rest of the post...

Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are two must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[JLollis]

It looks like the broken piece is part no. 11. Thanks for the info, Rudi. I've been enjoying (lurking) this message board ever since I brought the Cub home. I've found it very helpful. I have already been using the manual server as well. I carry a 3-ring binder with the owners' manual I printed every time I go out to mess with the tractor. I look forward to picking everyone's brains when I encounter issues with the Cub. Since I have yet to actually start the tractor, I still have a LONG way to go, and I'm sure I'll need some help.

[Rudi]

Great

Let us know if you find the part..

[Davesaver]

It looks like the broken piece is part no. 11.

I may have an extra one of those. I was out in the shop Saturday trying to round up all the tractor stuff and put it in one place. The previous owner had given me a box of mags unfortunately not J's but H's. Anyway I found the back end of the govenor just like in the illustration above and it has that lever on it. I'm not exactly sure it's off a cub but would be happy to look for you tonight.

Dave

[rick 48 cub]

Great image of a governor Rudi !

Now where is all that "slop" people talk about ?

Is it where the two pieces of eight come together ? (No pun intended.)

Thanks, Rick

[Lurker Carl]

The slop is at key #6 and the end of rod #30 where it fits into spring lever #8. The key wears, the key way in the shaft wears and possibly the key way in the lever wears as well. A little wiggle in this area magnifies tremendously by the time it transfers to the throttle plate.

[rick 48 cub]

Thanks Carl,

I wonder how it would work to loose the key and drill a 1/8" dia hole through the assembled parts (numbers 5 and 30) and run a small bolt through it - or a steel cotterpin.

Rick

[Lurker Carl]

Rick, Rudi's exploded diagram is misleading.

Bracket #5 actually bolts to the front corner of the block to support rockshaft #30 and allows it to rotate at clip #31. You don't want to fuse them together! The female end of spring lever #8 and the keyed end of rockshaft #30 is what needs shimming, glueing or rekeying.

[beaconlight]

n Dave I bought one from my case IH dealer about 3 years ago. I had to remove the Gov cover and grind the part thin where it pivots on the pin on the gov cover. It came off easy then. Unfortunately you have to remove the Dist, Put #1 cyl on TDC so the marks on the gears line up. The marks are hidden behind the oil seal so you will have to remove the seal or use a mirror to see them clearly. Then install the gov cover then reinstall the dist with the rotor pointing to where the #1 of the dist cover is. Turn the dist so that the points just break tighten the dist adjustment. This will give you a cold timing setting. After you start up use a timing light for final adjustment. While in there it is easy to change the plugs and lub the generator and fan. Forgot to mention you will have to remove the gas tank hood and generator and fan. The fan nut is not what you turn The shaft is hex and that is what you put the wrench on. Souns like a lot but when you are done you will realize it wasn't that hard.

Bill

[JLollis]

Davesaver,

Did you have the correct part? If so, how much do you want for it?

Jim

[JLollis]

Dave,
Please disregard that last post. I just got your PM. Thanks anyway. It's nice to know that there are people on here that want to help.

Jim

[Rudi]

Jim:

It's nice to know that there are people on here that want to help.

I think you find that is a mantra here, not an exception. That is one of the reasons why this forum is the very best on the net.

[Chris Todd]

Jlollis,
I broke the same #11 last year trying to free it up. I broke the top of the ear off. I cleaned both parts with acetone to remove all grease etc. and used JB Weld to reassemble. Has worked great. Did some research before repair and found there are 2 different #11 choices depending on year I think. Different length of ear. Tom should have both I imagine if you decide to replace. Hope this helps.
Chris

[Ken (48 Cub)]

rick 48 cub asked about drilling a hole through the rod to fix the slop.

Thats what the PO did on my tractor, works just fine with the cotter pin.