Question on the brass bearing that the front of the driveshapt goes into.
I put in a new one and shortly after the tractor put back into service it popped out of the crankshaft and is floating on the end of my driveshaft. the tractor runs and drives great still but the shifting is back to the way it was before I rebuilt the clutch.Crappy.
any suggestions and how bad will it hurt to drive it this way?
Thanks Chris
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brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
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brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
Christopher Milow
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Re: brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
The item you are describing would be the clutch pilot bushing if I understand correctly, and yes, driving it that way will eventually cause a problem if it has not already. it will cause excessive wear on the end of the drive shaft and on the hole in the crankshaft necessitating one one or both having to be replaced. Assuming the new one you put in was an IH, and not just something that was supposed to fit I would say the hole in the crankshaft was already worn if you seated the new bushing properly.
At this point my next step would be to check the fit of another pilot bushing in case the first one was defective, but most likely it will be a little loose also, they should be a pretty tight fit in the crankshaft. If it is not a tight fit I would clean the bushing good with something on the order of brake clean, and apply a coating of Permatex Bearing Mount inside the crankshaft hole and install the bushing. Let it set overnight and lube the bushing and reassemble. If it still will not hold I would either get another crankshaft, which will probably need to have the journals measured, or take your existing crankshaft to an engine machine shop where they can bore it for a slightly larger O.D. bushing and install the bushing. If it hasn't been done recently I would also have them measure the journals and turn it if necessary.
At this point my next step would be to check the fit of another pilot bushing in case the first one was defective, but most likely it will be a little loose also, they should be a pretty tight fit in the crankshaft. If it is not a tight fit I would clean the bushing good with something on the order of brake clean, and apply a coating of Permatex Bearing Mount inside the crankshaft hole and install the bushing. Let it set overnight and lube the bushing and reassemble. If it still will not hold I would either get another crankshaft, which will probably need to have the journals measured, or take your existing crankshaft to an engine machine shop where they can bore it for a slightly larger O.D. bushing and install the bushing. If it hasn't been done recently I would also have them measure the journals and turn it if necessary.
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howard rotavater and gear reducer
fasthitch plow
fasthitch disc
fasthitch snowblower ( in the works)
woods 42 mower
Richmond planter w/ fertilizer attachment.
cultivator. - Location: Lino Lakes, MN.
- Contact:
Re: brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
thanks John for the hhelp on both of my posts I trust youre input and knowlage on the farmall cub
Christopher Milow
,getting to Know Jesus
better as my Friend every day
I thank him for his love and grace
,getting to Know Jesus
better as my Friend every day
I thank him for his love and grace
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Re: brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
Hi,
The pilot bushing should be a tight fit on the OD, like John said, and need to be driven into the crankshaft hole.
Below is a listing from TM Tractor showing a new pilot bushing, you can look and see if it is the same as you have.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/067fp.htm
They have said on here that some of the new pilot bushings are too small an ID after driving them into the crankshaft hole, because they shrink slightly from driving them into the hole. Then if you put the Cub together, the clutch shaft will not stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down, because the bushing is holding the shaft too tightly.
The bushing ID needs measuring before putting the pressure plate on.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing the size the end of the shaft should be, and the running clearance in the bushing.
The bushing has to be reamed if the ID is too small.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg
The pilot bushing should be a tight fit on the OD, like John said, and need to be driven into the crankshaft hole.
Below is a listing from TM Tractor showing a new pilot bushing, you can look and see if it is the same as you have.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/cl/067fp.htm
They have said on here that some of the new pilot bushings are too small an ID after driving them into the crankshaft hole, because they shrink slightly from driving them into the hole. Then if you put the Cub together, the clutch shaft will not stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down, because the bushing is holding the shaft too tightly.
The bushing ID needs measuring before putting the pressure plate on.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing the size the end of the shaft should be, and the running clearance in the bushing.
The bushing has to be reamed if the ID is too small.
http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 005-02.jpg
- John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Re: brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
The way my memory is getting, trusting me could be like leaning on a broken stick.liquid plumber wrote:thanks John for the hhelp on both of my posts I trust youre input and knowlage on the farmall cub
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- 5+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1947 mccormic farmall cub
1965 farmall cub w/ fasthitch and wagner loader
1974 cub cadet
howard rotavater and gear reducer
fasthitch plow
fasthitch disc
fasthitch snowblower ( in the works)
woods 42 mower
Richmond planter w/ fertilizer attachment.
cultivator. - Location: Lino Lakes, MN.
- Contact:
Re: brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
yes but that stick can be properly duct taped and work even better that way
Christopher Milow
,getting to Know Jesus
better as my Friend every day
I thank him for his love and grace
,getting to Know Jesus
better as my Friend every day
I thank him for his love and grace
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Re: brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
I am going to get a reputation as a hack mechanic, oh well the truth hurts. Take a center punch and work around the inside of the hole in the crank and dimple it about 30 times. Use locktite bearing retainer and drive the new bushing in. Ream or drill inside clearance to spec. By the time you get it back together it will have set up. If it is so loose this won't work you will have to drill out the crank and have a new bushing made with a larger outer diameter. You should not have to remove the crank to have this done.
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Re: brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
47fivewindow wrote:I am going to get a reputation as a hack mechanic, oh well the truth hurts. Take a center punch and work around the inside of the hole in the crank and dimple it about 30 times. Use locktite bearing retainer and drive the new bushing in. Ream or drill inside clearance to spec. By the time you get it back together it will have set up.
I just used that method to snug in a bearing in the center quill of a 48" deck on a lawn tractor. I have used the process many times on old farm equipment for many years.
I don't call it a hack, I call it frugal. When you are dealing with a "lot" of "old" farm equipment and tight times saving every bit you can means the difference in survival or not.
"farmer"
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Location: TMCOTKU (Shelbyville, IN.) Cubfest 2004
1947 CUB named "Major"
5 other red ones
JD-A
MM-R
AC-C
MF-165D-HA)
2 Case VACs
MH-Pony
2 Ford 8Ns
Ferguson TO-20
Everything needs something, some need almost everything.
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Re: brass driveshaft bearing at front of shaft
I always call that a poor mans knurl! And, yes, I've used the method many times, with good results.
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