Fuel Tank

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SAAndrus
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Fuel Tank

Postby SAAndrus » Wed May 02, 2018 2:19 pm

:help: :surrender:

I have been trying to save this hood. Exterior looks good bottom of fuel tank is worse than swiss cheese. I have cut out the bottom and tried to spot weld all the holes but everytime I get close I find that there are many more to go. Today I thought I had it, put it in the blast cabinet to clean up before welding tank back shut, and then do the whole tank clean and seal. Blasted it only to open up about 1000 pin holes!! :surrender:

Has anyone found a poly tank that will fit whitin the old tank area and covered by the hood? Do we have anyone here that can make a new tank to hide within the old tank area? Any suggestions, ideas. If all else fells I have a WTB Ad on the vine.
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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby Stanton » Wed May 02, 2018 2:48 pm

No one I know on here makes a poly gas tank to fit inside the existing one (if I understand you correctly).

With so many parts Cubs out there, you'd be further ahead to just get a good used one.
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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby pickerandsinger » Wed May 02, 2018 2:58 pm

Red Kote is a good tank lining substance....Its about 20 dollars a quart...I have used it and it worked great for me , but it was on a field tractor I bought thats tank was fun of sludge and I cleaned it and then lined it with Red Kote to prevent rust flakes from taking over...By the description you have written , you may be better off with a new (used) hood and tank ...You can always google Red Kote tank liner and see if it will fit your needs....Dave :tractor:
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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby w30bob » Wed May 02, 2018 3:19 pm

Hi Sam,

Couple of thoughts for ya.....

If you find a rectangular poly tank that fits the width and depth......you can shape (round) the back side with a heat gun. You have to be careful not to get the poly too hot or it sags (melts), but I've shaped a few in the past and with a little practice with the heat gun you can do some pretty cool things. You can also expand the flat side (instead of trying to round out the corners) if you pressurize the tank with air while heating it. This is a bit more tricky, as you have to control two things at once. It's like fixing dents in a two-stroke exhaust pipe with a torch once you have air pressure inside the pipe. Takes a bit of skill, but once mastered can produce some really great results.

If you'd rather not mess with all that you can still save the tank with an epoxy sealer.........assuming your idea of a "pin hole" is really a small hole and not something you can stick a pencil thru. There's a number of products out there that can do the job.......I'm sure folks will have their favorites and not-so-favorites. If we're really talking pin holes and only on the floor of the tank you can tape the bottom of the tank with Gorilla Tape or any good Duct Tape (don't worry, it's not permanent and will be removed) and then flood the tank with POR-15. It doesn't need to be 1/8" thick or so, just enough to cover the pits the holes make and the rest of the tank floor. Allow it to dry for a few days, take off the tape with adhesive remover, and you're good to go. POR-15 also makes a specific gas tank sealer, but I haven't used it personally. There's a few other good tank sealers listed in Hemmings, etc that work.

We're on a roll, so I'll keep going.........I'm assuming your tank is pretty clean inside. If not this won't work. You'll need to etch the inside of the tank (yeah, it needs to be that clean) with your favorite poison......can't be any grime, rust or old fuel residue in the tank. There's lots of videos online about how to clean a fuel tank prior to welding or applying heat. Word of warning here...........if there are any fuel vapors left in the tank do NOT attempt this repair method. We had a young farm kid a few years back who was working in the field with his tractor. Tractor stalled and he wanted to see how much gas was in the tank. Not thinking, he took the fuel cap off, pulled out his lighter and held it over the tank to see how much fuel was in there. Blew his head clear off. Not kidding......it happened. Don't mess with fuel vapors and an ignition source. Ok, you get it, I'm sure. With a really clean tank and no rust to be found you could potentially solder a new floor into the tank. You'll need one of those big fat 250-300 watt soldering irons........not one of those pencil tip things used to install resistors.....I mean one with a big fat wide tip and heat sink fins at the top of the handle.........hence the term "soldering IRON" and not soldering gun. Roll up some silver solder.....has to be silver solder......drop it in the squeaky clean tank and move it to where you want to work with a wooden stick. Then heat the underside of the tank with the soldering iron until the solder starts to melt (you watch it thru the gas cap hole with a flashlight). Once it starts to melt move the soldering iron around in a circular motion to spread out the solder. When you get the solder good and molten it will self level and form a new flat floor in that area. The solder won't fall thru pin holes, but will if the holes are any larger than that. Don't overheat the bottom of the tank as these irons can get hot enough to weaken the steel and it will start to distort. Just start slowly and take your time. I repaired my M38A1 fuel tank this way and it came out great. You have to work in areas of a few square inches and move around to keep the heat from affecting what you already soldered..........but with some patience it works. If you want to try this cleanliness is the key.......when you think it's perfectly clean.....clean it again. The inside must be clean or the solder won't stick.

All this so far is a lot of work. Have you considered just cutting out the old floor and welding in a new one? I don't have a hood near me and I'm trying to remember how they're put together........maybe that isn't as simple as I'm thinking. I'm sure the other guys will have other options as well.

regards,
bob

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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby SAAndrus » Wed May 02, 2018 10:13 pm

Thank you to those that have replied so far. Here are some photos to show what I'm working with. I have thought about just welding in new iron just was worried it wouldn't be strong enough being flat. Since original had raised area which made it stronger.
Attachments
20180502_200153-640x480.jpg
If you look closely you can see the pin holes I'm dealing with. I do have a couple bigger holes I know need to be welded.
20180502_200202-640x480.jpg
20180502_200208-640x480.jpg
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1951 Ferguson TEA 20 (parts)( Uncle Rusty)
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C-22 Sickle Bar Mower
IH C2 and C3 mower
Universal tool attachment with disc hillers..Rear cultivators (various tips
York Rake for Cub home made
Single bottom Plow for Cub F194
Gravely 5660 12 hp/ w snoblower.rototiller,bush hog
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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby pickerandsinger » Thu May 03, 2018 3:31 am

Red Kote does seal leaks in tanks from what I've heard from forum members and the site...I..There is some drying time involved...Dave
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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby MiCarl » Thu May 03, 2018 6:23 am

Sorry, thought I replied yesterday but apparently forgot to press Submit......

I would use an epoxy liner on that tank. You could cover the bottom of the tank with duct tape and apply the epoxy. I use an epoxy from Caswell on motorcycle tanks. According to them ALL the fuel, oil and loose rust needs to be removed but it actually performs better if there is some surface rust.

With your tank I'd be tempted after lining it to turn it over and paint a coat on the exterior too.
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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby Urbish » Thu May 03, 2018 6:47 am

Two thumbs up for POR-15 fuel tank sealer. I have done the tanks on my Farmall H and B with lasting results. I'm sure other products like Red Kote are good too.

Jim

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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby SAAndrus » Thu May 03, 2018 12:01 pm

I am loyal to POR-15 and have some for this tank and the 100. I was just thinking I had to have every hole welded up before i coated it. How thick will the lining be after coating? Can you coat let it dry then coat it again to get the liner thicker? Will a second coat bond to the first? Thank you all for the replies. I wanted to save this tank so badly now I think I'll be able to.
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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby Urbish » Thu May 03, 2018 12:34 pm

SAAndrus wrote:I am loyal to POR-15 and have some for this tank and the 100. I was just thinking I had to have every hole welded up before i coated it. How thick will the lining be after coating? Can you coat let it dry then coat it again to get the liner thicker? Will a second coat bond to the first? Thank you all for the replies. I wanted to save this tank so badly now I think I'll be able to.


It's about the consistency of maple syrup, so the resulting layer is fairly thin. That said, if you use masking tape over the pinholes on the outside, they should be nicely filled. I'm not sure how well a 2nd coat would adhere to the first. I'd maybe do it while the 1st is still tacky, so that they chemically bond. You might ask the folks that make POR-15 that question.

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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby w30bob » Thu May 03, 2018 3:57 pm

Urbish,

If you're talking about regular POR-15 it's pretty thin when the can is first opened. That's what allows it to be self leveling. If you want it thicker open the can, stir it around a bit, put the lid back on and wait 2 weeks. When you reopen the can it will be thicker. But don't wait months or it will solidify in the can. You also have to make certain when you seal it back up that the top of the can with the groove that accepts the lid, as well as the lid, are perfectly clean of POR-15. If not you'll never get the can open again. When that happens you have to punch a hole in the can, pour it into another container and use it immediately. I always buy the little 6-pack of cans because once open the clock has started and if not used fairly quickly you'll be throwing money away. You can apply multiple coats of POR-15, but don't let the previous coat fully cure before applying the second or third coat. Same goes for paint if you plan to paint it. Give it an hour or so to get good and tacky and then mist it with the top coat paint you plan to use. I say an hour but it really depends on the humidity. POR-15 cures by absorbing moisture.....so on damp days it hardens faster than on nice low humidity days. Don't put a full coat on, just a light mist coat to give the next real coat of paint something to stick to later. It's hard not to put a full coat of paint on it when you have the gun loaded or the spray can in your hand.....but don't. Think guide coat as in bodywork where you want to find high and low spots. If you can't see the POR-15 thru your mist coat you're putting on too much. Applying a full coat will slow the curing process considerably if the POR-15 can't contact the air around it.

POR-15 makes a pre-paint cleaner/etch that you can use before you apply the POR-15......forget what it's called.....but you'll see it on their website. If you're talking about their fuel tank sealer..........I've never used it, but it's probably the same stuff, just a little thicker. But it should come in a kit with everything you need. You can save the tank..........there's a ton of videos on You-Tube you can watch that show a million ways to do it. Take a little time and research the various methods to see what will work best for your application. You really only get one shot at it, as getting most of these sealers out of the tank if they don't work will be just about impossible. And then you'll have a REAL mess on your hands. Speaking of hands...........wear rubber gloves. POR-15 takes days (as in many of them) to wear off your skin. Let us know how you make out.

regards,
bob

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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby bofahs » Thu May 03, 2018 4:40 pm

I'm in agreement on the POR-15 Gas Tank Sealer. You have to use their prep wash, as well, though. I used to get it in a kit, with the wash and sealer included. I think the wash is a mild phosphoric acid. A single coating should be all you need. It has worked for me after other products had failed.

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank ... B001NGB57M

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Re: Fuel Tank

Postby SAAndrus » Thu May 03, 2018 11:55 pm

Thanks again. I purchased the complete tank repair kit. The cleaner, etcher and tank sealer. I have the tank open now so I blast it in my blasting cabinet. But will still use cleaner and etcher just to make sure it binds and works to it's best! I will post updates and pictures.
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Sam Andrus


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