1975 cub clutch

[Jamesk]

Advise needed. Can these parts be reused or should they be replaced. Not a very good pic of the pressure plate.

Thanks for the advise.
JK

[Glen]

Hi,
The parts I can see in the pics all look good. Can't see much of the pressure plate.
The disc lining looks ok, I think, the material should be above the rivets a little, they are not above the rivets much when new. You can look at TM Tractor and see pics of a new disc.
The throwout bearing looks good, only a little wear on it. The material sticks out of a new Case IH bearing 5/16".
I would put a thin layer of grease on the face of the bearing, that touches the pressure plate fingers.

If you are replacing the pilot bushing, measure it after installing it in the crankshaft hole. Some of the new bushings are too small an ID after installing them in the hole. Then if you put the Cub together, the clutch shaft will not stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down.
The Cub service manual tells the clearance specs in the Clutch section. The bushing has to be reamed and made larger inside, if it is too small.
Put a layer of grease on the front one inch of the clutch shaft, and in the pilot bushing before putting the Cub together in the middle.

[Jamesk]

Here are a couple pics of the pressure plate.

[Jamesk]

Glen,
So after the bushing is installed the end of the crank the transmission shaft want go up in the bushing?

JK

[Gary Dotson]

I would re-use those clutch parts without hesitation! The pressure plate fingers show a little heat discoloration, probably needed a little more lubrication than it was getting. As Glen mentioned, coat the face with grease before re-installing and grease the bearing zerk (with cheap grease) till grease comes out the hole on the other side.
Glen's reference to the pilot: There have been several cases of people installing new pilot bushings that ended up too tight on the shaft causing the transmission shaft to continue spinning when the clutch pedal is depressed. I doubt that you need to replace the bushing but if you do, beware that it may tighten up too much. There have been various method used to gain the necessary clearance, a proper reamer is most desirable, but a simple sandpaper whip will work. The bushing bore needs to be 5/8" plus a couple thousands to spin freely. Probably just lubricate yours and put it back together.

[Jamesk]

Thanks Glen and Gary. I appreciate the advise. I’ll be using the old clutch. Thanks again

JK

[Bob McCarty]

James, You may want to loosen the lock washers on the fingers just to make sure they aren't going to be a problem if adjustment is needed down the road.

[Jamesk]

Will do Bob. I’ll check this afternoon after work. Thanks

[Glen]

Hi,
Yes, the Cubs do go back together, but the shaft is too tight in the new bushing, and it won't stop turning when you push the clutch pedal down.
Like was said above, the bushing you have is probably good, inspect it with a light to be sure, you could measure it and the shaft end, if you have a dial caliper. Grease it before putting the Cub together.

You could check the 4 bolts holding the flywheel on, and be sure they are tight.

Feel the flywheel surface where the clutch disc runs, and the pressure plate surface, with your fingers, they should feel smooth. If they feel rough, use some fine sandpaper and smooth them.

Tighten the 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate on gradually, going around the plate, it is loading the springs as you tighten the bolts.
After you assemble the pressure plate and disc on the flywheel, and tighten the 6 bolts, you should check the finger height.
The guys on here say the height should be 1 1/4" measured from the 2 places shown in the pic below.
The 3 fingers need to be exactly the same height, so it makes a flat surface for the throwout bearing to push on. It is much easier to check and set the fingers while the Cub is split.
The fingers are set with the pressure plate assembled on the flywheel, not off, like the pic shows.

Check the throwout bearing holder while the Cub is split, the holes wear in some of them, at the long pin at the top of it, and the pin can wear too. It should have a solid feel, not worn and loose.
The holder has to hold the bearing firmly from the sides, so the bearing stays straight up and down, if the holder is bent wrong, the bearing can be loose, and the top will flop down.
The holder should not move from side to side hardly any on the long pin also.
Your bearing looks good, so there might be nothing wrong.

Check the clutch pedal free play after putting the Cub together, it should be 1", measured at the surface where your foot pushes on it.
Maybe you knew most of this before.

[ntrenn]

I know the cub is its own animal, but the industry standard clutch service would be to resurface BOTH the flywheel and the pressure plate. Most towns still have a machine shop that grinds flywheels. I have had Kentucky Clutch do at least 30 over the years.
If the flywheel looks anything like that pressure plate, they both should be resurfaced. It will be money well spent...

[Jamesk]

Good stuff!!!! Glen and Norene
Thanks guys I didn’t know all the info you posted Glen. I appreciate it too. As far as the surfaces are concerned l think the fly wheel looks good. See attached. What do you think? If fly wheel is okay should I resurface the pressure plate. Or should I go ahead and resurface both?

JK

[Jamesk]

Woops auto spell gotch ntrenn

[ntrenn]

Never a bad idea to put a fresh grind on both pp and flywheel. I cant ever remember not resurfacing a flywheel. Neither of yours are acceptable for a tractor you plan on keeping.

[Jamesk]

Took them both to machine shop this afternoon.