Trailering a cub

[MiCarl]

My Cub's primary purpose will be as a plow tractor for plow days. So it'll get trailered several times a year to events.

Flipping through the manual yesterday I noticed IH specified that the rear tires should be inflated to 30PSI and the fronts to the maximum sidewall pressure for trailering. This would be inconvenient, especially for the trip home as I don't have a large portable source for high pressure air.

When I brought the cub home (about 200 miles) the tire pressures were extremely low and it seemed to suffer no ill effects.

Anyone see a real issue with trailering a cub with the tires at operating pressure?

[Eugene]

I don't change the tire pressure when trailering my Cub. I just make sure the tractor is chained to the trailer, front and rear. Making sure the tractor can not slide sideways or forward or back.

Have trailered tractors much larger than the Cub over 300 mile from Iowa to Missouri. Only thing I can suggest is to stop frequently and check the load on the trailer.

[staninlowerAL]

Agree w/Eugene. IMHO the reason to over inflate the tires is it helps to keep the tie downs tight by reducing the "bounce" of the tractor. The tie downs will usually need to be tightened up a bit after hauling a few miles but after that they are usually OK for the remainder of the trip. I prefer to have 4 ties that are totally independent of each other either cross front to back or end to end on the load to the trailer. That's so if one gets slack or comes loose, there's still 3 tie downs holding the load. I also secure the handle of the binder to the chain so that it cannot come loose and add slack to the tie down point. This has worked for me for more than 50 years, never had a problem with loosing a load.

[Waif]

I chain rear rims ,and have a well oversized strap on front.
There is some/little flex in all ties. Nothing against tighter binding ,but ,that's how I'm hauling it.
Seems the trailer flexes enough on bumps to not have the tractor bounce hard enough to loosen anything ,or allow tractor to scoot any direction.
Were I trailering it farther ,more checks would be done at intervals. Each stop gets a check anyway ,even on my normal short hauls if I stop.
So far no change in position. With no alteration of air pressure before/after hauling.

It a trailer or flat bed, or rail car was stiffer ,it might contribute to more bounce?

[meandmydeere]

MiCarl, I hope you think about attending the Antique Farm power Clubs 27th annual tractor and engine show at the Muskegon County Fairgrounds June 7-9. We are having a CubFest/CubTug/Cubarama. Featured tractors this year is anything that starts with "C". Check out our website at www.antiquefarmpowerclub,biz
Mark

[MiCarl]

MiCarl, I hope you think about attending the Antique Farm power Clubs 27th annual tractor and engine show at the Muskegon County Fairgrounds June 7-9. We are having a CubFest/CubTug/Cubarama. Featured tractors this year is anything that starts with "C". Check out our website at http://www.antiquefarmpowerclub,biz
Mark

Probably not this year. We've got the HMOPC show at Fowlerville the weekend before that I have to attend because I'm an officer. SWMBO is unlikely to tolerate two weekends in a row off the lake.

We're likely to retire next June which might give me more flexibility for future shows.....

[meandmydeere]

I understand. There will be Cubs there from around the state so it's a good time to make new friends and get repairs made.

[Eugene]

The only thing I can tell you about fastening the tractor to the trailer is "'DON'T GO CHEAP". Use chains and load binders or heavy duty ratchet straps. Do not use the dollar store ratchet straps. More is better.

Over the years I've trailered many different tractors, skid steers, implements. Each is anchored to the trailer in a different manner.

[staninlowerAL]

In addition to all the above, there are Federal and State requirements for binding a load to the trailer. Failure to meet the requirements can result in a citation, have an accident and the problems are compounded very quickly. Accident with injury or death, you don't even want to think about it. JMHO

[SONNY]

I don't use ANY type of straps for tractors of any size!---Just not good lookin' to the laws eyes.--Go with heavy chains and binders, the law will salute you and never bother!---go with straps,--MIGHT get by, but could get checked.---I know semis use straps, but the ones I used on Melton's flatbed were 6" wide and the winch unit was massive.---Never had any problems, was checked one time near Bon Terr by Mo. highway patrol and passed because I had just stopped a hundred miles back and re-tightened them. --- Good luck and happy "cubbin" thanks; sonny

[jsfarmall]

What I typically do is 2 straps up front pulling back, chain and binder around the drawbar pulling forward. Then if I'm going a long way I'll even put a strap through the back wheels for extra and one over the torque tube pulling down to each side. I don't use a strap with less than 3k pounds working strength and a 3/8 chain. Overkill for a cub I know but straps are cheap compared to at the least a ticket for unsecured load and the most causing a wreck causd by e a 2k pound tractor tumbling down the interstate.

I trailer mine on a 16ft low bed trailer with tandem axles. Once again Overkill for a cub but I like the tandem cause I can have 3 blowouts with my spare tire and still keep going down the road. Having 4 tires on the ground the need for heavy tires is no where as important. But I have seen many many cubs hauled on 12ft single axles which is just fine. Just not my personal preference

[Frozenstate]

I always use chains and binders. Also remember to shut off the fuel, put the tractor in gear, I put it in reverse, set you brake on the tractor. And most importantly, carry a fire extinguisher.

[radioguy41]

I agree with all of the above except for putting it in gear. Any motion, however slight like simply bouncing on the tires, is going to cause movement in the gears and hence movement in the crankshaft. Those gear teeth jerking back and forth is not a good idea. 6 (or more) chains, HD straps, or a combination, and the brakes applied but leave it in neutral. Also, the engine is too small with too low a compression ratio and those big back tires create such a ratio advantage that being in gear won't stop it from rolling. Try it sometime, stop on a hill facing down, shut the engine off, put it in gear, let the clutch out and see how well the engine holds. Chances are you're going to start rolling down that hill. YMMV.

[Frozenstate]

Good advice, after reading your logic, no more trailering in gear.

[Rob in NH]

I use the wide ratchet straps , i forgot the rating but i'm sure its a lot. On long trips i use 4 , one on each wheel . And i set the parking brake and i leave it in 1st gear .