This site uses cookies to maintain login information on FarmallCub.Com. Click the X in the banner upper right corner to close this notice. For more information on our privacy policy, visit this link: Privacy Policy
NEW REGISTERED MEMBERS: Be sure to check your SPAM/JUNK folders for the activation email.
New to cub
Forum rules
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
Notice: For sale and wanted posts are not allowed in this forum. Please use our free classifieds or one of our site sponsors for your tractor and parts needs.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2018 8:04 pm
- Zip Code: 39422
New to cub
Need some advise on this 1952 cub. Tractor has been in shed for 10 years. Found water in the crankcase. I removed the head, found that it was warped. I had it machined and dye checked all good there
All valves are moving free. I removed the oil pan and cleaned it.
Attempted to start engine with no success. Removed spark plugs and they are all dry. Ran a dry compression test had 25, 35, 40, 65. So I ran a wet compression test all cylinders are 75 to 85.
Rolled engine over with starter but didn’t notice any oil pressure on gauge but did hear the oil draining back to the oil pan
I installed spark plugs and noticed that it did burn the oil as it was turning over
Could the low compression be causing the fuel not to enter the intake?
I could use some help on where to go from here.
All valves are moving free. I removed the oil pan and cleaned it.
Attempted to start engine with no success. Removed spark plugs and they are all dry. Ran a dry compression test had 25, 35, 40, 65. So I ran a wet compression test all cylinders are 75 to 85.
Rolled engine over with starter but didn’t notice any oil pressure on gauge but did hear the oil draining back to the oil pan
I installed spark plugs and noticed that it did burn the oil as it was turning over
Could the low compression be causing the fuel not to enter the intake?
I could use some help on where to go from here.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4908
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:24 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: .
1970 International 140
1972 International 140
1949 John Deere A
1993 Ford 4630 W/Loader
1965 John Deere 110
1961 Cub Cadet Original - Circle of Safety: Y
Re: New to cub
First off if you haven't done it already, prime the oil pump. There's a small hole in where the oil filter goes, get a squirt can and fill that hole up several times. Rings are probably stuck after sitting that long, put some oil in the cylinders and let it sit for a day or two.
How do you hear the oil draining back to the pan?
How do you hear the oil draining back to the pan?
Every home is a school, what are you teaching?
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 7832
- Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:10 am
- Zip Code: 71023
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: LA, Doyline
Re: New to cub
Have you checked the timing?
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 1140
- Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2016 1:29 pm
- Zip Code: 49343
- Tractors Owned: 48 Farmall Cub "Seen Yore Dobbin"
53 F-Cub W/Loader. - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Michigan
Re: New to cub
A run through the fuel system starting at gas tank and through carb will eliminate fuel issues. Be sure float works and passages are clean ,with a focus on main jet.
Caution when removing carb cover not to break the fragile tube that sticks up into top of carb.
Then to ignition electrical. Stop switch ,then ignition.
Timing of spark ( after spark is confirmed) ,plug gap ,ignition points health and gap ,condenser ect.
Save any ignition parts replaced that are known to work properly. For use in later trouble shooting if needed....just in case a new one is a dud.
Caution when removing carb cover not to break the fragile tube that sticks up into top of carb.
Then to ignition electrical. Stop switch ,then ignition.
Timing of spark ( after spark is confirmed) ,plug gap ,ignition points health and gap ,condenser ect.
Save any ignition parts replaced that are known to work properly. For use in later trouble shooting if needed....just in case a new one is a dud.
-
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 7760
- Joined: Mon Jun 22, 2009 6:56 am
- Zip Code: 64070
- Tractors Owned: 1942 Farmall AV, serial #87025
1947 Farmall Circle Cub, serial #2116
1948 Farmall Cub, serial #46066 - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Lone Jack, MO
Re: New to cub
Welcome!
Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint you with the Forum:
After your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals. They are located via "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals". Through that link, you'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.
Might also this thread helpful: What to do with a Cub you just brought home
If you do disassemble your carb, be sure to pull the top straight up about 3"+ inches before moving the top sideways, due to a small idle tube that is connected to the top portion that protrudes down into the bottom portion of the carb. People who have never disassembled them before often pry the top off sideways and risk breaking that brass tube.
There are many good threads in the How To Forum. You may find many answers there. Glad you joined us.
Take some time and read through a few threads to acquaint you with the Forum:
- Welcome Wagon
- How to Upload Pictures to a Post
- Forum Picture Posting And Other Interesting Things You Can Do
- Using the Forum
After your 2nd post on the Forum, you'll have access to the all the PDF Manuals. They are located via "Quick Links" in the upper left corner of your screen. Hit that and a pull-down appears where you'll find "PDF Manuals". Through that link, you'll be able to download an Owner's Manual (very strongly recommended) and any service manuals that interest you. Implement Manuals are also available.
Might also this thread helpful: What to do with a Cub you just brought home
If you do disassemble your carb, be sure to pull the top straight up about 3"+ inches before moving the top sideways, due to a small idle tube that is connected to the top portion that protrudes down into the bottom portion of the carb. People who have never disassembled them before often pry the top off sideways and risk breaking that brass tube.
There are many good threads in the How To Forum. You may find many answers there. Glad you joined us.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 2823
- Joined: Wed Jul 08, 2015 10:24 am
- Zip Code: 19342
- Tractors Owned: 1948 6v - Dozer
1949 with kub klipper belly mower. mag 6v - Mom
1950 with plow, 54 blade, mott mag 6v - Roxanne
1953 54 blade, c22, wood 42 6v
1957 6v - barn Queen
1965 lo-boy with c-3 mower 12 v - Loboy
1974 Horse II 12 v c-2
1975 with woods 42-6 12 v - Horse
1979 long strip 12 v stuck engine
130 with international 1000 loader 6 v
1969 140 with bush hog tow behind mower 12 v
Terramite T-6 4WD Backhoe Perkins diesel
Memberships: Rough and Tumble Engineers Historical Association;Chapter 8 IH Collectors; IH Collectors Worldwide - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Glen Mills PA
Re: New to cub
I would also put some seafoam in the cylinders and let it sit. I might do it a few times to get the rings loose. they in all probability are stuck
When you only have 9 horsepower you need to know the names of all of the ponies!
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4996
- Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
- Zip Code: 36558
- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: New to cub
Extremely likely, it's an updraft system and low compression = low suction = vapors not pulled into the cylinders.Taterbaby wrote:......Could the low compression be causing the fuel not to enter the intake?......
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2555
- Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:38 pm
- Zip Code: 35630
- Circle of Safety: Y
Re: New to cub
Taterbaby wrote:Need some advise on this 1952 cub. Tractor has been in shed for 10 years. Found water in the crankcase. I removed the head, found that it was warped. I had it machined and dye checked all good there
All valves are moving free. I removed the oil pan and cleaned it.
Attempted to start engine with no success. Removed spark plugs and they are all dry. Ran a dry compression test had 25, 35, 40, 65. So I ran a wet compression test all cylinders are 75 to 85.
Rolled engine over with starter but didn’t notice any oil pressure on gauge but did hear the oil draining back to the oil pan
I installed spark plugs and noticed that it did burn the oil as it was turning over
Could the low compression be causing the fuel not to enter the intake?
I could use some help on where to go from here.
Sounds like you know what to do.....just keep working at it and you'll get it running in no time. These guys are pointing you in the right direction and filling in the gaps and details.
Regards,
Chase
205-368-5339
ihfarmallrtr@gmail.com
Follow my page "Alabama Tractor Pickers" on YouTube & Facebook!
Chase
205-368-5339
ihfarmallrtr@gmail.com
Follow my page "Alabama Tractor Pickers" on YouTube & Facebook!
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2018 4:12 pm
- Zip Code: 08087
Re: New to cub
staninlowerAL wrote:Extremely likely, it's an updraft system and low compression = low suction = vapors not pulled into the cylinders.Taterbaby wrote:......Could the low compression be causing the fuel not to enter the intake?......
I just bought a cub as well and my cylinder compression for all cylinders are in the 20's. I am in the middle for doing a valve job, when I pulled my valves the exhaust valves were burnt and wobbly. My engine has no rotators on the valves and they stay in one position burning them up faster.
perhaps your valves are on the downside of their life.
He sounds knowledgeable and will get it going
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Sun Dec 17, 2017 5:11 pm
- Zip Code: 15636
- Tractors Owned: 1949 farmall cub
1950 farmall cub
1973 cub cadet 149
1961 cub cadet original
1951 david bradley super power
and a ton of other small engines
Re: New to cub
if you know you have spark and a clean carb. i would suggest pull starting it if you can. i found that to be the easiest way to get a cub that has been siting a long time to start, these old updraft carbs and low compression engines can be a pain to start
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2018 8:04 pm
- Zip Code: 39422
Re: New to cub
Pulling it is a great idea.
Thank you
Thank you
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 4996
- Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
- Zip Code: 36558
- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: New to cub
Don't over stress the front axle or you might be replacing the bolster!!!!!
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
-
- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17489
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: New to cub
Pull from the drawbar.
-
- 5+ Years
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2018 8:04 pm
- Zip Code: 39422
Re: New to cub
I pulled the cub a couple hundred yards, it fired a few times with smoke. It would idle for about 10 seconds then die. I put sea foam on top of the pistons set for 12 hours. Did this twice.
Rechecked compression and all were 75 to 85 psi.
Oh yes, we had about 15 psi oil press as it was being pulled.
I turned engine over with starter it hit instantly and ran for 30 seconds.
It has a Zenith carburetor, I have removed it twice and cleaned it, but I’m not sure how to set the float, I’m not sure which model Zenith this is, it doesn’t have any numbers on it.
Should I be looking at the carb or low compression as my problem?
Thanks ahead for any advise
Rechecked compression and all were 75 to 85 psi.
Oh yes, we had about 15 psi oil press as it was being pulled.
I turned engine over with starter it hit instantly and ran for 30 seconds.
It has a Zenith carburetor, I have removed it twice and cleaned it, but I’m not sure how to set the float, I’m not sure which model Zenith this is, it doesn’t have any numbers on it.
Should I be looking at the carb or low compression as my problem?
Thanks ahead for any advise
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2555
- Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2010 6:38 pm
- Zip Code: 35630
- Circle of Safety: Y
Re: New to cub
The seafoam will make them smoke. I wouldn't use that but would put some oil in there. As long as you have oil pressure and since you've already ran it, you shouldn't need anything in the cylinders at this point. Get the carburetor rebuilt and correctly set, check the points setting and make sure plugs aren't fouled out and it'll run!
Regards,
Chase
205-368-5339
ihfarmallrtr@gmail.com
Follow my page "Alabama Tractor Pickers" on YouTube & Facebook!
Chase
205-368-5339
ihfarmallrtr@gmail.com
Follow my page "Alabama Tractor Pickers" on YouTube & Facebook!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Majestic-12 [Bot] and 7 guests