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Touch control rebuild
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 130
- Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2018 4:59 pm
- Zip Code: 28540
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
- Location: Jacksonville NC
Touch control rebuild
Just finished my touch control rebuild. After filling in with fluid and getting everything hooked up, I noticed a leak from the control valve in the front. There was only an o-ring to replace on this valve and the fit was snug when reassembled. I hate to tear everything back down because I am sure the oring was installed properly. Could the leak be due to over filling?
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- 10+ Years
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Re: Touch control rebuild
the oring on the control valve is a special size, it is fatter than a normal oring, did you use one from IH? I have not seen an aftermarket one made for it, also there is a boot on the outside of the shaft to keep the crap out, did you install that also?
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 130
- Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2018 4:59 pm
- Zip Code: 28540
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
- Location: Jacksonville NC
Re: Touch control rebuild
Used the oring that was in the IH kit. Boot was also installed. Hoping i didnt install the old oring by mistake. Can I drain and replace oring without disassembling entire box?
- Glen
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- Location: Wa.
Re: Touch control rebuild
Hi,
The unit will not leak at the front from overfilling it.
Yes, you can remove the control valve by itself from the front. Do not remove the Touch Control head.
You might need to remove the bolts that hold the unit to the clutch housing, and the tubes, and probably the throttle rod, and raise up the front of it some. You could try sliding it out first without removing the hold down bolts, and other parts.
The o-ring could have been defective, or got cut somehow putting it together. Be sure the end of the bore feels smooth, when you remove the valve, use a finger and feel the end of the bore. If rough, use fine sandpaper and smooth it. Remove all sanding with a clean rag. Put Hy-Tran fluid on the valve and o-ring when assembling it.
Below is a listing for the o-ring at TM Tractor, you can see what it looks like in the listing.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm
The unit will not leak at the front from overfilling it.
Yes, you can remove the control valve by itself from the front. Do not remove the Touch Control head.
You might need to remove the bolts that hold the unit to the clutch housing, and the tubes, and probably the throttle rod, and raise up the front of it some. You could try sliding it out first without removing the hold down bolts, and other parts.
The o-ring could have been defective, or got cut somehow putting it together. Be sure the end of the bore feels smooth, when you remove the valve, use a finger and feel the end of the bore. If rough, use fine sandpaper and smooth it. Remove all sanding with a clean rag. Put Hy-Tran fluid on the valve and o-ring when assembling it.
Below is a listing for the o-ring at TM Tractor, you can see what it looks like in the listing.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/674fp.htm
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- 5+ Years
- Posts: 130
- Joined: Mon Feb 12, 2018 4:59 pm
- Zip Code: 28540
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
- Location: Jacksonville NC
Re: Touch control rebuild
I checked and I did indeed put it back together with the new oring. I will pull it first of the week. At least got the garden rows made so wife is happy.
- Glen
- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
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- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
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- Location: Wa.
Re: Touch control rebuild
Hi,
Below is a page from the Cub owner's manual telling about filling the Touch Control, and removing the air from the system. Be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4 to remove the air.
Also, be sure the arms are in the rear, or down position when you fill the system the last time.
Maybe you knew this already.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2064.jpg
Below is a page from the Cub owner's manual telling about filling the Touch Control, and removing the air from the system. Be sure to do what it says in paragraph 4 to remove the air.
Also, be sure the arms are in the rear, or down position when you fill the system the last time.
Maybe you knew this already.
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... e%2064.jpg
- Stalkcutter
- 5+ Years
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Re: Touch control rebuild
Brodalick,
This may be your oil leak:
There are two actuator plugs just above the Control Valve on the front of the Touch Control. The top one is shorter and is called the Check Valve Actuator Plug. There is a second plug just below the top plug called the Check Valve Actuator Stop. Both of these plugs are installed using a brass crush ring. These brass crush rings are subject to leaking if not tighten sufficiently. If either of the brass rings are leaking it will appear as if the oil is coming from the Control Valve. Do not take anything apart until you re-torque these plugs to be sure.
Worth Checking...Stalkcutter
This may be your oil leak:
There are two actuator plugs just above the Control Valve on the front of the Touch Control. The top one is shorter and is called the Check Valve Actuator Plug. There is a second plug just below the top plug called the Check Valve Actuator Stop. Both of these plugs are installed using a brass crush ring. These brass crush rings are subject to leaking if not tighten sufficiently. If either of the brass rings are leaking it will appear as if the oil is coming from the Control Valve. Do not take anything apart until you re-torque these plugs to be sure.
Worth Checking...Stalkcutter
- Dale Finch
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'56 Cub #194370 "Boris" with Mott Flail mower - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Touch control rebuild
They are only in the front of the older Touch Control Block. On the later blocks, they are in the rear under the head, along with all the other valves.
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- 5+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1948 Cub
- Location: Jacksonville NC
Re: Touch control rebuild
Great advice. Mine is the older one in the front.
- Drfting1
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59 cub - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Touch control rebuild
I had the same problem with mine after rebuilding, wound up sliding valve out the front, put another new ring on... Leak cured
Bill Longeill
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- 5+ Years
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Re: Touch control rebuild
Does anyone know what the 3 check valve actuator plugs, 2 on the front and one on the rear inside the block cover, need to be torqued to, to ensure the brass crush rings seal properly?
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