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Cub Idfentification

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staninlowerAL
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Posts: 4975
Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
Zip Code: 36558
Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: AL (Southwest)

Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby staninlowerAL » Mon Mar 19, 2018 8:18 am

FLOPGUY wrote:What I am mostly concerned with is ordering parts for the engine, is it possible to use the block's part number to figure out what engine parts I need?

Others may chime in but basically all Cubs, and other applications that used the C60 engine used the same block. There were some changes made along the way that increased the HP from about 9 in the beginning to around 18 at the end of production. Some of the changes had to do with the governor, engine RPM, pistons, manifold, carb, etc. Engine block part numbers are designated by R1 through R8 (not sure if that was the last one). Two of these were one had to do with the stronger front connection to the bolster and another was to provide clearance for the 12v starter. If you're concerned about the internal engine parts, download one of the parts manuals like TC37F and compare the information it provides with the parts you are looking for as well as the part numbers on the various parts of your engine. Check the parts numbers for size and mic everything for fitment to get the right size. A good machine shop should know how to get/fit about anything in the C60 engine. JMHO Stan
EDIT TO ADD: Parts Manual ENG-1 Rev. 20 12-75 is specifically devoted to engines and covers the C60 engine in detail.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)

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Jim Becker
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby Jim Becker » Mon Mar 19, 2018 10:24 am

Glen wrote:. . . Looking at your pic of the front of the Cub, it looks like it has a steering arm for a LoBoy, and probably the tie rods also, so they would fit the steering arm.
Farmall Cubs have a different center steering arm, from the steering gear. . . .

There is a good chance the front bolster and steering gear was replaced as a complete assembly, thus the serial number and steering arm that agree with each other but nothing else on the tractor.

You should be able to read the actual stamped engine number on the block. There is a good possibility that paint is totally obscuring the number. Most engine parts changes are listed in the parts catalogs based on engine numbers, not tractor serial numbers. So tractor serial number is irrelevant to obtaining correct engine parts. Your engine number is probably 220 000 plus or minus about 3000, which is probably close enough for parts selection.

FLOPGUY
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby FLOPGUY » Mon Mar 19, 2018 10:35 am

Glen wrote:Hi,
There should be an engine serial number, I use a good light to look at them. I posted info before about where it is.


Below is a page from the 1955 Cub owner's manual showing the Farmall Cub, and the steering parts, look closely, both the tie rod ends go down from the center arm.


Yeah I looked for the serial number, but it must be too thickly painted, probably I will have to scrape it away.

I see where you are going with the tie rod ends.. very observant..

FLOPGUY
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby FLOPGUY » Mon Mar 19, 2018 10:41 am

staninlowerAL wrote:
FLOPGUY wrote:What I am mostly concerned with is ordering parts for the engine, is it possible to use the block's part number to figure out what engine parts I need?

Engine block part numbers are designated by R1 through R8 (not sure if that was the last one). If you're concerned about the internal engine parts, download one of the parts manuals like TC37F and compare the information it provides with the parts you are looking for as well as the part numbers on the various parts of your engine. Check the parts numbers for size and mic everything for fitment to get the right size.


Yea, I think that is the route to go.

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Glen
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby Glen » Mon Mar 19, 2018 6:36 pm

Hi,
I was noticing more in your pics, hehe, maybe you want me to stop noticing.

I'm wondering if the Cub is a LoBoy that someone changed into a Farmall Cub. I can't see if it is without being there, and it might be hard to ever figure it out.

The front axle has steering arms, at the right and left sides, that have setscrews holding the arms to the spindle shafts. IH quit using that style of arms in 1951. So either parts have been replaced, or the front axle has been replaced, and is from a 1947 - 1951 Cub.
The arm style since 1951 was a clamp type.
Below are pics at TM Tractor.

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gst ... ey_001.htm

Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the serial numbers when they changed the arms, at numbers 1, and 6.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 014-02.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 014-03.jpg

Also, check the setscrews to be sure they are tight, they wear, or become loose, so the arm is loose on the shaft. Some loosen and some don't. They need checking and tightening occasionally.

It also has the bent shifter lever, like the LoBoy had, or a Cub with the Deluxe seat had, but yours has a spring seat.

Some pics of the rear, where the brake rods go into the castings would be helpful, and the holes in the castings at the rear, by the brakes.

outdoors4evr
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby outdoors4evr » Tue Mar 20, 2018 6:50 am

OMG! You guys are being REALLY helpful here. I hope that Flopguy isn't afraid to post more pictures!
Don't be afraid to get your tractor running. All the parts don't have to be original to have a functioning tractor. It may be a little difficult to source the right part for the installed assembly, but she can run like a well oiled sewing machine.

1) Prime the oil pump before cranking it up! Search the forum for instructions.
2) The battery "should" be positive ground. When you switch it, you will need to polarize the generator (an easy process) to get it charging again.
It was probably polarized as a negative ground previously.
3) A zenith carb will work fine, but may be a tad rich at wide open throttle because the intake manifold is a smaller diameter.

Have a great time with your tractor before you decide whether you want to replace parts that have been previously replaced. I would recommend changing the fluids and Play first! I'll bet you may enjoy the LoCub / FrankenBolster cub (or whatever you want to name it).
184 w/ Creeper & 3-Point
IH 3160a Mower
IH Model 15 Tiller
IH-54 Blade

FLOPGUY
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby FLOPGUY » Tue Mar 20, 2018 11:49 am

Glen wrote:Hi,
I was noticing more in your pics, hehe, maybe you want me to stop noticing.

Some pics of the rear, where the brake rods go into the castings would be helpful, and the holes in the castings at the rear, by the brakes.


No problem, the more info written on these boards, the more people are helped. I've read threads 10 yrs old that is relevant.
Attachments
farmall front.jpg
farmall rear.jpg

FLOPGUY
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby FLOPGUY » Tue Mar 20, 2018 12:09 pm

outdoors4evr wrote:OMG! You guys are being REALLY helpful here. I hope that Flopguy isn't afraid to post more pictures!
Don't be afraid to get your tractor running. All the parts don't have to be original to have a functioning tractor. It may be a little difficult to source the right part for the installed assembly, but she can run like a well oiled sewing machine.


My tractor looks good, but is no where near running. The guy I bought it from said it ran last year, I knew that he was lying, because the paint was not worn off the inside of the pulleys, he did a good job thorough painting it and probably tried what he could to get it running, but I don't think he had the knowledge to figure out the problems, because everything was wrong, the distributor was rotated way off and he did not realize that the compression was way low between 20-27 psi per cylinder. I pulled the valves and they are no where near sealing, they slopped back and forth when installed. I ordered a valve kit with guides and I will re cut the seats. I put a straight edge on the block and head and they look good. Bottom line is, it will run..

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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby Glen » Tue Mar 20, 2018 6:37 pm

Hi,
Thanks for the pics. The front steering arms are the older type, like I wrote above.
The final drive, where the brake is, has the smaller hole for the brake rod. They were used for the first style of brakes, from 1947 - mid 1953. Then IH changed to the newer style of brake, and the castings have a larger hole there.
A 1957 Cub would have originally had the newer brakes and castings.

I don't know if the left side on yours is the same as the right side or not.

You could check the date codes on the final drives, and see what year they were made, it shows the location of the codes in the TM Tractor info I posted before.

Below are pages from the Cub parts manual showing the different brakes, and it shows the serial numbers when they were used.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 004-02.jpg

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/cub_ ... 004-03.jpg

Below are pics of the final drives and brakes, from TM Tractor. :)

http://www.tmtractor.com/tm-tractor/gfi ... vecomp.htm

A Cub will work normally having replaced castings and other parts, if it was put together right. It is no problem, they still work good for doing work, or show.

FLOPGUY
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby FLOPGUY » Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:29 pm

Glen wrote:Hi,
The final drive, where the brake is, has the smaller hole for the brake rod. They were used for the first style of brakes, from 1947 - mid 1953. Then IH changed to the newer style of brake, and the castings have a larger hole there.
A 1957 Cub would have originally had the newer brakes and castings.

I don't know if the left side on yours is the same as the right side or not.

You could check the date codes on the final drives, and see what year they were made, it shows the location of the codes in the TM Tractor info I posted before.

.


Both sides look the same as far as the hole goes.

casting codes 4*6*T both sides are T

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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby Barnyard » Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:58 pm

Finals are off a 1950.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.

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Indy4570
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby Indy4570 » Tue Mar 20, 2018 10:13 pm

previous owner must have had a BIG lunchbox (Johnny would be proud )
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better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it...( YES this includes CUBS! )

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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby FLOPGUY » Tue Mar 20, 2018 10:27 pm

I am starting to think that even the tires are not original

The guy I bought if from called it a 1949, but starting to think it's every year but 49

staninlowerAL
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Posts: 4975
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Zip Code: 36558
Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
Circle of Safety: Y
Location: AL (Southwest)

Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby staninlowerAL » Wed Mar 21, 2018 3:25 am

If you think about the parts interchange, one has to admire the people at IH who made the decision to do so. Most major parts from a '47 will fit (and work) on the last cub made. Try that on the equipment that's on the market today!!!!! Gotta love it. :hattip:
Stan in LA (lower AL)
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Re: Cub Idfentification

Postby Eugene » Wed Mar 21, 2018 5:51 am

FLOPGUY wrote:I am starting to think that even the tires are not original

The guy I bought if from called it a 1949, but starting to think it's every year but 49
My complete standard Cub's cast parts are date coded from 1947 to 1950. It's a working tractor, so I don't care about the mismatched cast date codes.

Depending on the type of farming the previous owner(s) did, the tires are more than likely not the ones originally installed at the factory.
I have an excuse. CRS.


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