Brought home my cub

[Dale Finch]

You probably need to check the clutch finger adjustment height, as well as the throw out bearing distance from the clutch fingers. If they are incorrectly set, the TOB carrier can move too far forward & hit the clutch finger adjustment bolts/nuts.

There are HOW TO procedures in that section.

[Pothole31a]

Sounds like that could be what’s happening. I’ll research it further. As of right now I just love starting it up and hearing that thing purrrr.

[Glen]

Hi,
Good that you got the engine to run.
If it has a metal to metal sound when the engine is running, and you push the clutch pedal down, something is probably out of adjustment.
The clutch pedal free play could be set wrong, or the pressure plate fingers are too low.
Don't push the pedal down to where the sound happens, it can damage the parts of the clutch.
I would check and set the clutch pedal free play first.
Below is a page from the 1949 Cub owner's manual telling how to set the clutch pedal free play.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... age-40.jpg

The free play is measured at the surface where you put your foot.
After setting the free play to 1", if the grinding sound still happens, the finger height needs checking, the fingers are probably too low.
Below is a post from the How To section on here, telling how to set the finger height through the hand hole under the clutch area.
You will need to make the tool shown in the post. The finger height should be 1 3/16" - 1 1/4", they have said on here.
viewtopic.php?f=141&t=66543

After setting the finger height, you will need to set the pedal free play again.
Setting the free play automatically sets the distance between the throwout bearing and the fingers, as it says in the manual page above.
While you are there, I would grease the throwout bearing grease fitting, if you didn't.
They say on here to use cheap grease, so the oil in the grease will absorb into the bearing material.
The original style throwout bearing doesn't turn, it has graphite type material. The material sticks out of a new bearing 5/16". The material can wear down from use, if it is worn lots, the bearing probably needs replacing.

[Pothole31a]

Really appreciate the help. That will be the next project. I got a few other things to button up on the motor and tank so once that’s done it’s on to the clutch. Also gotta get that gas cap.

[Glen]

No leaks as of right now and the only thing I need is a new cap for the gas tank and radiator.

Hi,
The standard radiator cap for a 1949 Cub was a non pressure cap.
TM Tractor Parts sells them, below is the listing, you can look at the pics.
http://www.tmtractor.com/new/co/1642fp.htm

[Pothole31a]

I adjusted the clutch. While not 100% I think I’m in the right direction. What a nightmare it is to adjust but I had a system that was working. I used a 1/4” socket with a flathead screwdriver tip and a 1/4” wrench and it worked perfect. First one was a nightmare but started to get the hang of it. Looks like the fingers were way out of adjustment. I did all 3 and adjusted the pedal but it still made the noise. But it was at the very end of pushing the pedal. So we are in the right direction. I thought I was adjusting it too much and didn’t want to screw it up. So looks like I’ll be going back under the tractor tomorrow to adjust just a little more and we should be in business. Tomorrow might be the day it actually drives on its own. Pretty exiting stuff!

Also gas and radiator cap on order.

[Jim Becker]

. . . But it was at the very end of pushing the pedal. So we are in the right direction. I thought I was adjusting it too much and didn’t want to screw it up. So looks like I’ll be going back under the tractor tomorrow to adjust just a little more and we should be in business. . . .

Been there. It needs just a little bit more adjustment. (Don't tell anybody I said this. But if I'm real close sometimes I just give it a little extra free play at the pedal, maybe up to 1/4" extra. Nobody will know.)

[Gary Dotson]

That’s cheating, Jim and ,yes, I’ve done it too! It’s real easy to make yourself a gage to adjust to the prescribed 1 1/8” - 1 1/4” finger height. A piece of still wire with an L bend the appropriate length. I used a piece cut from a discarded windshield wiper arm. I made a sharp 90 deg. bend then fine tuned the length, on the belt grinder. I put a longer bend in the other end, to act as a handle.

[Pothole31a]

Don’t worry your secret is safe with me!

I’ll give it another adjustment tonight and we should be good.

[Pothole31a]

DRUMROLL….. It drives!!!!! I came home from work after thinking about adjusting the clutch all day and adjusted the fingers a little more and the pedal and we are good to go!!!! I pushed it out of the garage and started it up. Got on the tractor and pushed in the clutch. It didn’t make any noise. Put it in gear and let off the clutch and we have lift off!! I’ve never been more excited!! I drove it to my neighbors house to show him it’s running and driving. He was equally as excited. So I gotta say I’m pretty proud of myself. I’ve never done much with tractors but this has been a fun project. It’s far from over and there is still a ton to do on the back half of the tractor but that can wait till spring. In the meantime I’m going to button stuff up on the front and maybe drive it around a little more.

[Bob McCarty]

Congrats on getting it going!!

[Peter Person]

……..While you are there, I would grease the throwout bearing grease fitting, if you didn't.
They say on here to use cheap grease, so the oil in the grease will absorb into the bearing material.
The original style throwout bearing doesn't turn, it has graphite type material. The material sticks out of a new bearing 5/16". The material can wear down from use, if it is worn lots, the bearing probably needs replacing.

Make sure you don’t forget this, otherwise you’ll hear all kinds of noise and will be splitting the tractor.
Tractor Supply Green/Black tube is the easiest grease to find that releases the oil into the TOB. Wouldn’t hurt to wipe some on the face of the TOB as a head start. There is an overflow hole on the top of the cast iron retainer. Pump until it comes out that hole.

[ricky racer]

[Glen]

Good news that you got the clutch to work.
I didn't say above, be sure to tighten the pressure plate finger adjusting screw lock nuts tight, so they don't move on their own. You probably need to hold the screws in position as you tighten the nuts, so the screws don't turn, if the screws turn that could change the finger height.
You also should look at how the throwout bearing contacts the fingers. With the engine off, use a light and look in the hand hole, move the clutch pedal down until the bearing contacts the fingers. The bearing and holder should be straight, and the bearing should be centered on the 3 fingers. Work the pedal down and up several times, through it's full travel, and see if it looks straight. You may need another person to work the pedal.
The bearing or bearing holder hitting the turning pressure plate can bend the holder, then the holder needs straightening, or replacing. The bearing can be damaged too.
You didn't say how far the material is sticking out of the throwout bearing.

[Dale Finch]

The service manual states free play should be 1". However, that is a ballpark figure, and is actually determined by the gap between the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers, which should be approximately 1/8". That 1/8" spacing is the critical distance, not necessarily the free play, & can change over time with clutch pressure plate & TOB wear, requiring rechecking periodically.

So while you're on your back under the tractor, look and see if you actually have about 1/8" gap between the (unpressed) throw out bearing and the fingers. If you do not have that gap your fingers are either too low or the throw out bearing is too far forward or back... Which you can change at the pedal (On the later cubs).