68 Cub Rebuild in progress

[cavingreer]

Yeah I'm betting I got that washer backwards. I was really particular about getting the rubber pad in it right but I remember agonizing over the wave washer. Since we had COVID first of the year my eyesight shifted and I can't use my glasses. The instructions with the kit were really small and I'm betting once I take the pump back apart I'm going to find that washer wrong

[cavingreer]

OK so hydraulics fixed, clutch un-stuck and now I'm able to drive it around.
NO power at all. It runs great in 1st and 2nd around the flat yard but the moment you hit 3rd it just bogs down and dies.
I fought with the governor all day thinking it just isn't kicking in enough but it acts pretty much like mine when you pull on the carb linkage.
Flushed and refilled the watery gunk out of the gearbox but that made no change of course.
Driving it more I discovered that regardless of gear even the slightest incline bogs it down.
The final drives sound squeaky and grumpy, not sure if that's got anything to do with it.
So valve adjustments? I have not checked them. They were froze up when I first got into it and I had to work them unstuck to get compression to find TDC and check timing.

[Don McCombs]

Adjust those valves and give it the Seafoam treatment.

[Glen]

Good that the Touch Control works.

I would check the ignition timing. The engine can have less power than it should have if the timing is wrong.
The Cub service manual says use a timing light for a Cub with a Battery Ignition unit.

Below is a page from the Cub service manual showing the timing marks a 1968 Cub should have, there are 2 marks.
Align mark number 1 with the pointer when the engine is running at slow idle speed, which should be 500 RPM.
It's part of a good tune up.
Use only the pic and the description under it, they are talking about other things on the page.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 001-43.jpg

One of the experts on here said to use Seafoam in the motor oil for 2 oil change periods. It takes time to help the piston rings come loose, if they are stuck.
The 1965 Cub operator's manual says to change the oil every 250 hours of use.

The operator's manual for mid 1975 and newer Cubs says to change the oil every 100 hours.
I don't know why they say to change it more often on the newer Cubs.

[cavingreer]

Compression test this morning. 120 in all 4 cylinders dry. Was 160 wet in #1 then it broke the schrader valve in the new compression tester. Put the plugs back in and cranked and black oil started shooting all over the carb. Found this. Looks like a definite problem

[indy61]

I think that hole in the manifold is there to drain any condensation that might accumulate.
Those are very good compression readings.

[Don McCombs]

Is it really black OIL, or is it water soaked carbon?

[cavingreer]

It does look machined not rusted but soon as I got it off the kids came by so I quit. I knew there was the plug in the front of the manifold but didn't expect that one. That's the oil and crud from doing the wet compression test

[Glen]

Hi,
The small hole is supposed to be there in the manifold. You didn't need to remove the manifold because of it being there.
It is a water drain hole, like he said above.
Sometimes they are plugged with carbon.

The Cub service manual says a Cub engine has 120 lbs of compression, that is probably for a new engine.
If the engine is using oil, the oil rings are probably stuck, or wornout.
Try using the Seafoam, like was said above, it may free the rings.

Several people on here have said that it helped their Cub engines to mostly stop smoking.

If the squeaking you hear when the Cub is moving is from the upper areas of the final drives, it could be the brake lining rubbing on the brake drums. I have heard it before on a Cub.
It may get better as the Cub is used more.
You could look in through the rear final drive holes where the brakes are, and see if it is dry, or oily.
It should be dry, if it is oily, the oil seals are leaking, and there could be oil on the brakes.
Use a light to look in the holes.

[cavingreer]

Surely that hole shouldn't be open?

[Glen]

Hi,
Yes the small hole is supposed to be open. I'm not sure of it's size, it is small.
It can make a mess if black water comes out and onto new paint.

Dale Finch has made posts about it before.

[cavingreer]

Well dang I thought I'd found my problem. It's only about 1/4" but I've never noticed it on my 49. The mess is just because of the wet compression test. Will be worse I'm sure when I do a heavy Seafoam treatment. I freaked out when it happened because I'd just finished the compression tests, checked the plug gaps again and reinstalled them and started it back up and black junk blew everywhere. Oh well I guess I'll put it back together and move on with RPM and timing and I still can't see either of those being my problem.

[Gary Dotson]

That hole is supposed to be open but it's usually quite small, yours looks enlarged. At any rate, that will have no effect on engine performance.

[Nostalgic]

I am trying to remove my oil bolt from the oil pan on my 53 cub. Recently inherited from my father, its been sitting for over ten yrs. I've been shooting a little pb blaster on it almost everyday for past 2 or 3 weeks and lightly tapping with a hammer. Cannot get it free. Suggestions appreciated.

[cavingreer]

Nostalgic you need to start your own thread not post in the middle of mine please