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hydraulic pump leak
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17533
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: hydraulic pump leak
Replacement repro lift rods are available. Contact “tst” by PM to inquire.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6182
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: hydraulic pump leak
Hi,
J P Tractor Salvage is at the bottom of most pages on this website.
Maybe you know this already, here is info about the Fast Hitch.
With the Fast Hitch you're supposed to back up to the implement and back the hitch into the point of the implement, to hitch the implement on.
To remove the implement, pull the latch up, it should stay up then, then lower the implement to the ground, so the weight is mostly off the point, then drive the Cub ahead, and it disconnects from the point of the implement.
You don't have to lift the implement by hand to connect it, or remove it.
Some implements won't balance when sitting on the ground, and the point falls down to the ground. You can use a wood block cut the right length and put it under the rear part of the point, so most of the point will go into the socket when you back into it. Then when most of the point is in the socket, lift the implement up and let the block fall over, then lower the implement so it is on the ground, and back up again, and the point should go fully in, and the latch close.
You will need to lift the point up by hand, to put the block into position before beginning to hitch the implement to the Cub.
I use a 4"x4" block, about 12" long makes the point about level with the ground for the implements I have.
When the implement is out of the hitch, I would put grease on the bottom and top areas of the point, and inside the hitch socket, where they have been rubbing.
J P Tractor Salvage is at the bottom of most pages on this website.
Maybe you know this already, here is info about the Fast Hitch.
With the Fast Hitch you're supposed to back up to the implement and back the hitch into the point of the implement, to hitch the implement on.
To remove the implement, pull the latch up, it should stay up then, then lower the implement to the ground, so the weight is mostly off the point, then drive the Cub ahead, and it disconnects from the point of the implement.
You don't have to lift the implement by hand to connect it, or remove it.
Some implements won't balance when sitting on the ground, and the point falls down to the ground. You can use a wood block cut the right length and put it under the rear part of the point, so most of the point will go into the socket when you back into it. Then when most of the point is in the socket, lift the implement up and let the block fall over, then lower the implement so it is on the ground, and back up again, and the point should go fully in, and the latch close.
You will need to lift the point up by hand, to put the block into position before beginning to hitch the implement to the Cub.
I use a 4"x4" block, about 12" long makes the point about level with the ground for the implements I have.
When the implement is out of the hitch, I would put grease on the bottom and top areas of the point, and inside the hitch socket, where they have been rubbing.
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2023 8:52 pm
- Zip Code: 37221
Re: hydraulic pump leak
I've replaced the hydraulic lines.
JP parts were excellent service, thanks.
I still cannot figure out the filling maximum. There's a large flat cast part that can be seen thru the filler hole that comes up to the bottom of the fill hole. The rockshaft arm is as far back as it will go. The system has the air bled by multiple full range movements. It seems to work well. There seems to be no way to assess "1/2 inch level below the fill port" as the manual states because of the casting I can see and feel that comes right up to the fillport bottom. The unit took about 48 oz of hydraulic fluid until it began to run out of the filler. I assume that there was residual fluid in there after the initial drainage for installing the replacement lines. (The 68 oz stated specification seems logical if you have completely disassembled the hydraulic system).
How can I be sure I've properly filled the system? I ran it awhile and went thru full range of liftarm movement with the fill port open.
Thanks you- m weiss
JP parts were excellent service, thanks.
I still cannot figure out the filling maximum. There's a large flat cast part that can be seen thru the filler hole that comes up to the bottom of the fill hole. The rockshaft arm is as far back as it will go. The system has the air bled by multiple full range movements. It seems to work well. There seems to be no way to assess "1/2 inch level below the fill port" as the manual states because of the casting I can see and feel that comes right up to the fillport bottom. The unit took about 48 oz of hydraulic fluid until it began to run out of the filler. I assume that there was residual fluid in there after the initial drainage for installing the replacement lines. (The 68 oz stated specification seems logical if you have completely disassembled the hydraulic system).
How can I be sure I've properly filled the system? I ran it awhile and went thru full range of liftarm movement with the fill port open.
Thanks you- m weiss
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 17533
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 6:45 am
- Zip Code: 21550
- Tractors Owned: "1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Deep Creek Lake
Re: hydraulic pump leak
I wouldn’t get too wrapped around the axle about the precision of the fill level. If you can stick your finger in the fill hole and touch the top of the fluid, you are good to go.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5010
- Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
- Zip Code: 36558
- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: hydraulic pump leak
Don McCombs wrote:I wouldn’t get too wrapped around the axle .........
That's a good one Don. I've not heard it before. Hopefully I can remember it. (CRS)! Stan
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2023 8:52 pm
- Zip Code: 37221
Re: hydraulic pump leak
Thanks for your assistance.
It'd have to be a finger pushed into the opening to the first knuckle, with a 90 degree flexed distal phalanx at the back of the case, over the flat square casting inside the cavity , whatever that is. I think Ill fashion a dipstick out of a wire and see where it finds a level. I must be misunderstanding something; I still don't see how the 1/2" below the bottom of fill port comes in - it cannot be assessed.
It'd have to be a finger pushed into the opening to the first knuckle, with a 90 degree flexed distal phalanx at the back of the case, over the flat square casting inside the cavity , whatever that is. I think Ill fashion a dipstick out of a wire and see where it finds a level. I must be misunderstanding something; I still don't see how the 1/2" below the bottom of fill port comes in - it cannot be assessed.
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- Team Cub
- Posts: 17315
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:59 pm
- Zip Code: 55319
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MN
Re: hydraulic pump leak
I made a dipstick out of a heavy piece of wire (maybe 9 gauge or so). Put a right-angle bend one inch from one end. Put another right-angle bend at the other end for a handle. Without going and measuring it, I believe I have 6 inches between the 2 bends and the handle end is 2 inches long. I bent the handle so it points to the right when the other end points down. With it, I can reach in past the flat inside the Touch-Control and rotate it down to take a reading. I actually made this for a different application. The 2-inch end can be a dipstick elsewhere. A working dipstick for the Cub Touch-Control isn't very picky about the shape and dimensions.
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2023 8:52 pm
- Zip Code: 37221
Re: hydraulic pump leak
Thanks -thats what i had in mind.....
I was about to make up something similar, but I'll try w your dimensions
thanks so much- m weiss
I was about to make up something similar, but I'll try w your dimensions
thanks so much- m weiss
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:02 am
- Zip Code: 00000
- Circle of Safety: Y
Re: hydraulic pump leak
After the initial fill and cycling I just slowly added a little more with a long neck funnel until it dribbled out the fill plug hole.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6182
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:33 pm
- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Wa.
Re: hydraulic pump leak
Hi,
The Cub owner's and operators manuals up through 1957 said fill the Touch Control "to the bottom of the filler opening"
The Cub owner's and operators manuals up through 1957 said fill the Touch Control "to the bottom of the filler opening"
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