not starting

[dterhaar2000]

My 52 has been having some issues. A few weeks ago I jumped on it and it started up fine with no issues. Now it wont fire up, but i'm getting gas coming out of the bottom of the carb in a stream, and its not cranking well. The battery is fully charged, I put new plugs in, fresh gas, and new coil. The plugs don't seem to be getting great spark, it seems very weak.
I'm not sure what else it could be. Any help or points would be appreciated.

[SamsFarm]

Check under your distributer cap for corroded contacts!

If the contacts are aluminum they corrode, you can scrape it off with a pocket knife, and get you back up and running!

If so, look to getting a new cap with the brass contacts soon!

Thats would be where I would start first!

[Rick Spivey]

Start with what changed. I would assume new plugs are good, but if you flood them too long they may not work well. More likely a plug wire or 2 are on the wrong plug. Slightly less likely is the new coil is no good, it does happen with electronic parts these days; Also be sure the coil wires were hooked back to the correct sides. And then check cap, plug wires, etc. Sometimes when you start messing with tune-up, things start to flake out one after another, as if the weakest link is moving in the chain.

[Cubfriend]

A condenser is small but can cause a lot of problems. They do go bad. I would look at replacing the points and condenser. Sometimes the spring steel in the points gets weak and they don’t operate as they should. Your local NAPA store should have them. If it’s not cranking well I would suspect battery cables and connections.

[Glen]

Hi,
Cub engines originally have ignition points, and a condenser, in the magneto, and the Battery Ignition unit.
The points get old and burned after use, the more use, usually the more burned they get.
Eventually the spark is not as powerful as it should be, and eventually if the points get burned enough, the engine won't start or run.

Below is info about replacing the points and condenser in a Battery Ignition unit.
The 1st page shows how to get to them.
It is probably easier to see the pics on a computer with a screen bigger than a phone.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-11.jpg

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.clea ... age-12.jpg

To replace the points, I sit down next to the engine, on a lawn chair, or if the Cub has a rotary mower on it, let the mower down to the floor, and put something on it to sit on.
Put a towel on the floor to catch any screws you might drop.

You need a good light, a short screwdriver with a sort of wide blade, and a 11/32" open end wrench for the nut that holds the end of the point spring.
Tighten the nut gently, there is an insulation there in the side of the unit, it can break if you tighten the nut hard.
Be sure to set the point gap right, like the manual shows.

TM Tractor has new points and condensers, below is their listing, you can look at the pics.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/el/367fp.htm

The Magneto and Battery Ignition unit are shown in the Cub operator's manual also.

The ignition timing has to be set right to have good power. If it is off some, the power can be less than it should be.
IH says in the Cub service manual for Cubs with a Battery Ignition unit, to check it with a timing light, like are used on cars in the past.

[Cubfriend]

FYI, point gap for a magneto is .013 and for a battery ignition (distributor) is .020

[NJ Farmer]

A few tips that have given my Cubs flawless performance:

Stainless Steel (or solid copper core) ignition wires. Very important!

Second brass distributor cap points and brass rotor contact.

Also make sure the seals and gaskets on the distributor are not allowing any oil to pass through to the contact points.

Also uses only Case/IH points and condensers. OEM only parts inside are reliable not aftermarket junk.

Timing is also very important and you need a timing gun.

NJ Farmer

[dterhaar2000]

I replaced the points, condensor, rotor button, distributor cap, and wires; I also cleaned my battery connections and grounds. My spark is a lot better now and it's cranking better. However, i'm still not getting it to fire. It has spark and fuel and the battery has a solid 6 volts. I cleaned the carb and everything seemed to be in good order.
A while back, a wire that goes from the ammeter to the battery shorted out and I had to replace it. Could that have anything to do with it? I put a fuse in the middle to avoid it from burning up like that again.

[Rick Spivey]

I would now confirm that my plug wires were in the correct order. Around the distributor clockwise, it is 1-3-4-2, the cylinders are obviously 1-2-3-4 from the radiator back. I'm not sure I see if it is distributor or magneto, I assume distributor? SO timing could also be in question, either way. Static time it following instructions you can find here. I doubt the ammeter wire has anything to do with it if you are getting spark, I am just questioning if the spark is being delivered at the right time.

[Clemsonfor]

I replaced the points, condensor, rotor button, distributor cap, and wires; I also cleaned my battery connections and grounds. My spark is a lot better now and it's cranking better. However, i'm still not getting it to fire. It has spark and fuel and the battery has a solid 6 volts. I cleaned the carb and everything seemed to be in good order.
A while back, a wire that goes from the ammeter to the battery shorted out and I had to replace it. Could that have anything to do with it? I put a fuse in the middle to avoid it from burning up like that again.

Do you have 6v or more like 6.4? I ask cause 6.0 is basically dead!!!

[Paul in NJ]

Confirm that the coil that was replaced is the correct voltage. If you have a 12 volt coil on a 6 volt system that could introduce a starting problem since spark voltage will be lower as a result.

[Jose Wales]

My 59 Cub was doing the same when I bought it several months ago. but with help from this forum and trial and error Maude is starting the first time and running good. The carb was flooding whenever I tried to start it also and the PO had replaced the carb to no help. I replaced the carb again also the coil, plugs and wires and dist cap etc. It has electronic ignition so did not replace that. Still would not start and the carb still overflowed.
Used number 10 wire and replaced all the wiring except the wiring for the lights. Also replaced the ignition switch and ammeter that did not work.
She starts on first try and runs great now . To start the tractor I have to leave the throttle at idle and no choke, It seems you have to find the sweet starting spot and it will start every time once you get everything in order.

[Glen]

Hi,
Jose Wales, if the carburetors all drip on the ground out of the opening on the bottom of them, the float level may be too high, or there is dirt in the needle and seat, or the needle and seat needs replacing, on the original carb.
The needles and seats wouldn't need replacing on the new carbs unless they are defective.

They have said on here that some of the new imported IH style carbs come with the float level set wrong, and need the float level set like the IH service manual says. If they are too high, gas can drip out.

It is normal for some gas to drip out the bottom opening if you try to start the engine, with the engine turning over, and the engine doesn't start. It is an updraft carb, that is what happens when the engine doesn't start. The dripping should stop soon.