Complete Clutch Adjustment

[DonMountain]

I have a 1959 International Cub Lo-Boy with some clutch problems. When I push in the clutch, it doesn't disengage all the way resulting in gear grinding when putting it in gear. If I start the engine up when the transmission is in gear, holding the clutch pedal down, I can switch gears without the grinding. But when it has been running and the clutch let out in neutral, I can hold the clutch pedal down for awhile but it still has a little gear grinding before I can get it in. So, I pulled off the clutch cover and took a look at things in there. I had my wife pushing the clutch pedal down for me as I observed the linkage and clutch in operation, with the engine off. Then she cranked the engine around with the hand crank while I observed the clutch fingers. There is approximately 1/8" clearance between the throw out bearing and two of the clutch fingers, and a little less on the third finger. So, I was going to try to do a complete adjustment of all of the clutch adjustments, starting from setting the three clutch fingers at the (I think) setting of 1-1/4" from the face of the pressure plate. Making them all the same. Then adjust the clutch pedal clearance on the linkage out under the clutch pedal. Is there anything else you-all might recommend to fix this situation? The throw out bearing has about 5/16" pad on it as it should. And all the linkage is pretty tight with no play, and lubricated as it should be.

[staninlowerAL]

Adjust the fingers and see if this clears the problem. Has there been any work done is this area recently? A transmission shaft too tight and dragging in the pilot bushing will give the same symptoms.

[Dale Finch]

Fingers definitely need to be even and the correct distance, but....

I have a cub that needed the clutch adjusted when I bought it. I had done this many times, but no matter how carefully I adjusted the fingers, then the pedal, it continued to grind as you described yours. I finally did the procedure whereby you tape together two of the little red straws that come with spray cans, & attached the longer tube to a can of lubricant (can't remember which one now). Parked the cub with the nose pointed downhill. Then working through the handhole, I worked the tubing forward toward the bushing that Stan mentioned. Sprayed carefully (so as to NOT get it on the clutch) but liberally, so it would run into the bushing. Did this a few times, and since then it has been grind-free.

Good luck!

[DonMountain]

The engine was rebuilt maybe 20 years ago by reputable local machine shop, and they replaced the clutch disk, throw-out bearing and pressure plate also. I had some similar problems maybe 10 years ago, and adjusted the fingers at that time and it resolved the problem. So, about a year ago this problem developed again and I again adjusted the fingers. And now its started again. Is there a permanate solution to this? We do use the Cub to mow 7 or 8 acres on our farm during the summer months and haul a lot of firewood out for use in the furnace to heat the house in the fall and winter. But I don't see this as unusually heavy use for a tractor? Why does it keep failing?

[staninlowerAL]

Some things that come to mind none of which can be said to be the culprit cause: Excessive wear on the clutch disc attributed to "riding the clutch" when in use, inadequate or incorrect grease for lube the TOB, weak springs on the PP, worn linkage on the TOB, time in use (20 years?), probably several of the above. If aftermarket parts were used they may have aged out. Some have said that aftermarket parts are not as good as the OEM. You are probably going to have to split the tractor to really find what needs to be fixed.

[Eugene]

Remove the hand hole cover, flash light, check the condition of the throw out bearing.

20 years of usage is a long time for a graphite throw out bearing.

[DonMountain]

I already took off the hand hole cover and took a look at everything. The throw-out bearing graphite surface is about 5/16" thick protruding from the cast iron section. And it looks to be reasonably well lubricated with grease. And 20 years for a tractor is not much time. Most of the drivers (my wife and I) of course are more elderly long time clutch people. Our cars and trucks all have clutches as do our other tractors. And both of us know enough that you fill up the gas tank and put it in gear and run it until its out of gas. Maybe 6 or 8 hours if we mow while eating lunch. Then run it back to the barn and push in the clutch again and turn it off. Well, sometimes we do push in the clutch to put it in road gear to get it back to the barn. But neither of us use the clutch when we are actually mowing with it. We don't use it for snow pushing or anything like that. I also checked the bracket that holds the throw-out bearing and could not detect any looseness anywhere there.

[DonMountain]

I am going out to adjust the clutch fingers and the clutch pedal this morning. Does anybody have any suggestions for what type of lube to spray onto the clutch spline to try to lubricate the clutch spline bearing in the center of the flywheel? I have WD-40 but its in a gallon can and I usually use an old wash spray bottle with it, so no red straws to hook up to it.

[Eugene]

Should be able to get a container or two of spray lub, with straws, at your auto parts store. I would select a light weight machine oil, something that will easily flow.

If you have a hand pump type oil can, small hose from auto parts store to fit the spout.