Transmission bolt

[Masmith]

When I removed the bottom bolt on the rear of the transmission of the Loboy to attach the mower pulley's, it was apparent I had a problem as the fluid ran out of the hole. This is what I found (see picture) when I removed the cover. This was my first time removing the cover on this tractor so at least I get to blame this on a previous owner. Any ideas on a fairly simple fix to keep it from leaking. Changing out the transmission housing would be the proper way to fix this, however, that is more than I am willing to do. Hopefully there is a fix for this or someone else will be getting Loboy needing some TLC.

FullSizeRender.jpg (37.15 KiB) Viewed 456 times

[Glen]

Hi,
Too bad it is broken. Here is a pic of how they look from TM Tractor.
I would use a straight edge on the cover, and be sure it is flat. You'd have to plug the hole in the cover somehow, with no threads for the bolt. Welding the hole shut might make it warp. The experts probably know what to do with it.

[Masmith]

I think Plugging the hole on the outside so it doesn't leak is the answer. The two bolts on each side should keep it tight enough to prevent leaking.

[Glen]

Hi,
If you are going to use a mower that originally attaches to the lower bolts on the cover, maybe you need to remake the bracket somehow, so it attaches to more bolts, maybe up higher on the cover, not sure if any attachments use the lower holes, just a suggestion.
Use long enough bolts that they go in the threads as far as they can without bottoming out.

[Don McCombs]

You could try JB-Weld in the hole. Make sure everything is clean and degreased before applying the filler. After it cures, sand it down smooth.

[Jim Becker]

I don't think the L-22 uses that bolt, just three up by the PTO shaft. If you are attaching something that depends on that bolt (like some other mower) adding some additional bracketry that uses a couple more higher bolts is probably a good idea. Otherwise, the main thing is to plug the hole. What I would probably do:

Remove the rest of the oil away from the break. Thoroughly clean the broken area, finishing up with brake cleaner. Mix up a big lump of JB Weld to reconstruct the broken part of the casting. Use an insert to recreate the bolt hole while working with the JB Weld. For the insert, use a grade 8 bolt long enough to engage the full thread depth (or use the right size plain rod if you want to try your luck tapping threads in JB Weld. Either way, apply a thin coat of silicone grease to the insert. Spin a nut all the way on and off the bolt to make sure it is covered. Put the insert in place and mold the JB Weld around it. Let it cure for at least 24 hours. Unscrew the bolt (which won't be easy to break loose). Assemble the cover normally except for going easy on the bottom bolt, probably stopping at about 1/2 normal torque.

The worst that happens, it breaks loose and you end up back where you started.

A see while I was typing this, Don suggested plugging the hole with JB Weld. That is a better choice than trying to really weld the hole in the cover.

[smallfarm]

Consider taping the hole and threading in a plug or short bolt with a gasket

[Dale Finch]

There is a product I bought at an auto parts store (Auto Zone, NAPA?? not sure) that is designed for bolt hole repair. It's basically like JB Weld, but in a kit which includes a "release" gell. I used it to repair the implement hole on a final, and it worked great. Now, I haven't tried mounting anything more than a Woods 42, but it has lasted a few years. The PTO adapter shouldn't need much strength. Like I said, it's about the same as the suggestions above, but in a kit, and I think it also included a cleaner.

[Scrivet]

I would JB weld a headless bolt in the broken out hole using the unthreaded shank as a dowel in the cover. Make sure the cut off head is flush with the outside of the cover and correctly located. Then remove the dowel to the right and thread it for a bolt.

[brewzalot]

Along the lines of what JIm Becker recommended you could also cut a nut in half, JB weld it in, and use that as the missing half of the treads.

Or, if you don't care about looks JB weld a threaded stud in and use a nut on the outside of the cover instead of a bolt.

Tim

[Barnyard]

Bring it to the Bash in June and we will see what magic we can put to work on it.

[outdoors4evr]

Just clean it thoroughly and fill it in with JB Weld so it doesn't leak.
Use masking tape as a temporary wall across the machined surface while the JB Weld is curing. Remove tape when cured and sand the JB Weld flat to the surface.
I wouldn't bother with the bolt. Tim's idea of putting in a stud is a good idea. I would also use some RTV gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket. The key to RTV is a clean mating surface and lots of curing time before adding fluids. It doesn't take a lot of RTV to seal a gasket.

[muleboss]

I would put a piece of all thread or stud in it and JB weld it. Then cut it off so a nut would just fit on it when the cover is on , Do not try to tighten the nut real tight. Cut it flush and it will not stick out any farther than a bolt head.

[Matt Kirsch]

My idea is along the line of muleboss's, though I would braze the bolt in there as a stronger and more permanent fix.