Touch control pump

[Jerry's cub]

It appears I have hydraulic fluid in the oil, when I checked the oil last week at last use soon after parking it showed no sign. I checked oil today the level did not seem that high ,. But the oil on the stick seemed rather tacky when I parked it I did allow the arms to reach their full travel so did I leave it with high pressure in the system? Is it possible to get the o-ring on the shaft at some where like Napa or will I it require the full rebuild kit?

[ScottyD'sdad]

TM has the "O" ring, as well as the complete kit. Probably just needs the "O" ring.
Ed

[Bob McCarty]

If the TC was working fine before, you probably just need to replace the shaft o-ring. When you open up the pump you'll need to make sure the shaft isn't scored where the o-ring rides. There is a good "how to" in that forum on rebuilding the pump. TM Tractor sells them. It's a dash 112 o-ring (.103x.487, duro 75) if you want to source it elsewhere..

Bob

[Glen]

Hi,
Here is the kit at TM Tractor, if you want that. It has rings you could need, if the pump has never been rebuilt.

http://www.tmtractor.com/new/hy/288fp.htm

[Jerry's cub]

Okay will it require a new gasket to replace the o-ring or better probably to do complete rebuild.

[Bob McCarty]

To replace the o-ring, you'd also need the gaskets for both ends and the two o-rings where the manifold pipes attach to the pump. TM's kit price is about $29, the parts mentioned before would be about half that.

Bob

[Jerry's cub]

I see a $ 40.00 dollar washer mentioned and a jam nut should I need them as well?

[inairam]

This is a very good thread about upgrade options for the seal. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=40331

[Bob McCarty]

I see a $ 40.00 dollar washer mentioned and a jam nut should I need them as well?

You should be able to reuse the ones that hold the gear on. The outside of the washer is bent up to lock the nut. You'll need to gently bend it back down flat to remove the nut and then reverse the procedure when you reassemble.

Bob

[Don McCombs]

If you should happen to break the tab while bending it, a 3/8 inside toothed washer will work as a substitute.

[Jerry's cub]

Okay on the toothed washer I will have one hand tnx. I have the kit ordered from TM Tractor, is it feasible if I needed to plow to change oil and filter till the kit arrives?

[Scrivet]

It appears I have hydraulic fluid in the oil, when I checked the oil last week at last use soon after parking it showed no sign. I checked oil today the level did not seem that high ,. But the oil on the stick seemed rather tacky ......?

I think I would make SURE I needed to tear into the pump before I did anything. I'm just not convinced that you need to by your description, "level didn't seem high". That just doesn't give me the grab the wrenches attitude. I would check, and top off if needed, the hydraulic fluid level and I would make a mental note of exactly where the engine oil level is on the dipstick. I would drive the tractor around for awhile, then put it back in the exact same spot you started from, with the hydraulics in the same retracted position, and check the levels again making sure the dipstick was facing the same way both times. If the oil level went up and the hydraulic fluid down, then it's time to start wrenching. I also don't quite understand the engine oil being a little tacky. I don't think of hydraulic fluid as being tacky. If anything, when it gets in the oil, the oil will be thinner and more flowing. When I think tacky oil I think of chainsaw bar oil.

[Crimson Tim]

I also don't quite understand the engine oil being a little tacky. I don't think of hydraulic fluid as being tacky. If anything, when it gets in the oil, the oil will be thinner and more flowing. When I think tacky oil I think of chainsaw bar oil.

I have a bad leaker that is waiting for me to find time to rebuild the pump. The oil gets very thin, not tacky. I suppose it might depend on your oil and what you're using for hydraulic fluid. I've got conventional 10w30 in the engine and a fairly generic International-compatible hydraulic fluid from TSC (yellow bottle. Can't think what name is on it.)
Keep an eye on the fluid levels. That will tell you if you need to tear into the pump or not.
Overly tacky oil, to me, suggests something else. I don't know what, though, unless maybe detergent oil or sea foam or something has been used to loosen some crud in there and it is getting tacky because of the crud loosening???
(The tarry crap that oozed out of the filter drain tube only with assistance when I first changed the oil upon bringing my first cub home comes to mind...)

Others may disagree, but if you do have hydraulic fluid leaking into the oil, I think you'll be ok to run it, but be prepared to change the oil often, as its viscosity and lubrication properties will be drifting farther and farther off of ideal the longer you run it. And don't let the oil get too overfull, or the engine will start pushing oil out through every seal . BTDT briefly.

Since it sounds like you have a viscosity change the other way, I would recommend changing the oil first before plowing.

[Jim Becker]

Tacky? How about moisture? Water usually makes it look milky or greyish, but it will get gooey.

[Jerry's cub]

Well my findings today do not indicate crabbing the wrench just yet, scrivet made a very gud point it does make a difference which direction the dip stick is pointing. And also when returning the dipstick if you push to hard and to fast it tends to force oil up the stick, I did clean the breather on the dipstick with carb cleaner when I serviced every thing else so possibly I need to do a better job of it. I am running straight 30 WT. from napa, after looking at my records the oil is a little sticky because I also added a small amount of lucas. I did get the rebuild kit from tm tractor but am going to wait before doing anything just yet.